Options for Compression Ratios 1GR
- Thread starter iniazy
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My block, crank shaft and heads are all done and ready for assembly. Tomorrow I'll pick them up from the machinist.
I was told by a friend that installing the ignition coils from the later model dual VVTI 1GR motor improves performance. Anyone heard of that or tried it?
I was told by a friend that installing the ignition coils from the later model dual VVTI 1GR motor improves performance. Anyone heard of that or tried it?
Yes correct, and I verified from rock auto site that they have different part numbers. Albeit just a one digit difference.
Finally got my machined parts 
Picked up the stuff in my samurai, time for the Suzuki to serve the Toyota for a change:
Heads like new, with dual springs and titanium retainers:
Crank shaft machined and balanced:
Machined block:
Nice and shiny cylinder walls
The torque plate they made for me. Looks funny but does the job perfectly. They didn't bother cutting it to size, but it does the job. Cost me equivalent to $150:
Now just waiting for the bearings to get here. Then I'll start assembly.
Picked up the stuff in my samurai, time for the Suzuki to serve the Toyota for a change:
Heads like new, with dual springs and titanium retainers:
Crank shaft machined and balanced:
Machined block:
Nice and shiny cylinder walls
The torque plate they made for me. Looks funny but does the job perfectly. They didn't bother cutting it to size, but it does the job. Cost me equivalent to $150:
Now just waiting for the bearings to get here. Then I'll start assembly.
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To quote a respected engineer in the field, " The only mechanical change from our 1grfe to the dual vvti one is the implementation of iridium plugs. Coils have different body's but same internals. "
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Might be an "ugly" torque plate, but as long as its purpose was served properly, then those looks take a far second hand role. The rest looks very nice.
Refresh my memory please. This was the block which had cylinder scoring?
Refresh my memory please. This was the block which had cylinder scoring?
Yes correct, and the cylinder I pictured above is the same one that was scored. It's the original engine that came with the fortuner.
I'm using the heads from the other engine, I think they're in better shape, cuz they've always been very quiet. The original heads had valve chatter, and since I'm not changing my cam shafts and can't change cam shaft bearings I decided to use the better head.
I'm using the heads from the other engine, I think they're in better shape, cuz they've always been very quiet. The original heads had valve chatter, and since I'm not changing my cam shafts and can't change cam shaft bearings I decided to use the better head.
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When I was setting up the heads for my big bore 1GR , the lash was out of tolerances on many of the lobes. A lot of loose gaps, and no one likes those. I can see how those heads would have been clattery.
After checking and adjusting every valve's lash, the payoff was that Goldylocks was a very quiet engine, relatively. As well as having a bit more valve opening.
After checking and adjusting every valve's lash, the payoff was that Goldylocks was a very quiet engine, relatively. As well as having a bit more valve opening.
Much more like it!
Installed crank shaft with .25 oversized bearings:
Pistons and rods set up
And installed
Looks like a V6 Koenigsegg engine. I love the looks of those ceramic coatings.
Heads installed with standard thickness head gasket. LCE assured me that it will be fine, will probably add 0.1:1 compression, is all, and I'm already at 9.5:1 so still lower than factory CR:
The ARP studs and nuts gave me the freak several times, while torquing them down the nut suddenly becomes easy to torque for no apparent reason. First time I thought I stripped the threads. I guess it's just the moly lube doing its thing.
Installed crank shaft with .25 oversized bearings:
Pistons and rods set up
And installed
Looks like a V6 Koenigsegg engine. I love the looks of those ceramic coatings.
Heads installed with standard thickness head gasket. LCE assured me that it will be fine, will probably add 0.1:1 compression, is all, and I'm already at 9.5:1 so still lower than factory CR:
The ARP studs and nuts gave me the freak several times, while torquing them down the nut suddenly becomes easy to torque for no apparent reason. First time I thought I stripped the threads. I guess it's just the moly lube doing its thing.
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Getting close now! Looks truly sharp.
I have had the similar issue with the studs many times. Freaks me out every time.
Which brand rods are those?
With my stroker crank and my Carrillo H-beam rods, I had clearance issues between all of my oil squirters. That took quite a bit adjusting and testing to make sure they all cleared with room.
I have had the similar issue with the studs many times. Freaks me out every time.
Which brand rods are those?
With my stroker crank and my Carrillo H-beam rods, I had clearance issues between all of my oil squirters. That took quite a bit adjusting and testing to make sure they all cleared with room.
That's probably due to the stroker crank. I have no clearance issues with the oil squirters at all.
My rods are Brian Crower (BC).
This:
I had a confusion on setting up the timing on LH bank (driver side). The Factory Service Manual mentions that aligning the intake and exhaust cam shafts is with the Intake cam shaft timing mark with one dot. Although that doesn't make sense, seems to me that the LH bank intake timing mark to be used is the two-dot mark only, not the one dot. A confirmation would be helpful.
Also, I assume the exhaust cam sprocket from URD are not LH or RH specific, am I right? Because it seems to me that they should be LH and RH specific, since they are not symmetric.
I have not checked the bearing clearance for cam shafts at all, because I didn't see the point. Even if it is too big there isn't anything I can do, unless I replace the entire head. The camshaft bearings are part of the head casting, and cannot be replaced as with GM small and big blocks. God bless GM.
I had a confusion on setting up the timing on LH bank (driver side). The Factory Service Manual mentions that aligning the intake and exhaust cam shafts is with the Intake cam shaft timing mark with one dot. Although that doesn't make sense, seems to me that the LH bank intake timing mark to be used is the two-dot mark only, not the one dot. A confirmation would be helpful.
Also, I assume the exhaust cam sprocket from URD are not LH or RH specific, am I right? Because it seems to me that they should be LH and RH specific, since they are not symmetric.
I have not checked the bearing clearance for cam shafts at all, because I didn't see the point. Even if it is too big there isn't anything I can do, unless I replace the entire head. The camshaft bearings are part of the head casting, and cannot be replaced as with GM small and big blocks. God bless GM.
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Must be the picture of the intake cam gear, from the back side. That picture can be a tad confusing with its orientation.
Two dots:
Note the driver side "two dots."
Passenger side rotated to line up.
Driver side
Passenger side.
Two dots:
Note the driver side "two dots."
Passenger side rotated to line up.
Driver side
Passenger side.
