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A Bypass Valve check should be on the cards if everything else checks out ok.
Reading this thread hurts my brain.
Good write up mate.
Great to see you using distilled/demineralised water :)
The steel pulleys are good to go again, provided you remove them correctly.
Not sure about the aluminium ones though.
I would hope that there is nothing taken off the shaft to install the 2.55 lol
Really isn't a lot left to take off the snout housing as even to...
Mine still quick enough to make a list? lol
There is a capped nipple at the back of the plenum.
Bypass valve operates off manifold signal. It is possible the line has a hole in it, the bypass actuator diaphragm is perishing or something along...
The bearing in the smooth pulley (on the tensioner) was on its way out on mine.
I changed them out for SKF steel bearings, they would be more...
The nachi bearings in the idler pulleys won't give you much life, they do cop a flogging though.
I recently changed mine out for some SKF...
NST kit replaces the crank pulley, water pump pulley, bottom ribbed corner idler and the smooth idler on the tensioner arm.
You will need the two...
Nah man, I would have been worried the same, but I would not have gone to bed lol
Would have had the front end in the air looking for that noise...
1. Jap, 2009, TRD, Hilux, red
2. 5 speed auto
3. TRD Blower 10psi
4. Drag Radials
5. See slip
6. See slip
Just catching up with the rest of us lol
Nice write up, some real good info in here.
If only nitrous were legal in the road here, I'd have my system in.
Keep us updated with progress
As Gadget said, could be a crack in the TB housing.
Possibly a pinhole/porosity in the TB casting?
Or you could call Mulder & Scully in.
And not to mention oil particles in the combustion chamber causing pre-ignition
they also contaminate the water - air heat exchanger in the plenum
292rwhp on current tune, made 310rwhp before without the fat mid range torque (I know what I prefer)
12 metric buckets of torque