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Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers

rat7761

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dtlt.jpg


There's definately more power and it doesn't feel like the truck lost any low end. A 12mm flex head gear wrench makes it a lot easier to tighten the header bolts. Make sure you remove the exhaust manifold brackets on the bottom during installation. There's a lot of room when the brackets are removed. Both headers went in from the bottom. The driver's side header is a little tricky because of the steering shaft but it goes in without removing the shaft.

dtlt1.jpg


I just had to bend a wiring harness bracket and zip tie the wire out of the way so it didn't touch the headers. It's the wire in the pic. It runs down to another bracket on the framerail which is the one I needed to bend.

dtlt2.jpg


dtlt3.jpg
 
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XrunnIT

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Nicely done!! The headers open up a lot of power. I would expect you to pick up 2-3mph in the 1/4.
 

T0LLPHR33

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looking good bro...:top:

I can't wait to get my set of DTLH...
 

braves011

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your one lucky fella, i had o remove the steering rack to get mine in. glad you like them :top:
 

disciple X

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yeah.... that steering shaft is a pain... and on the passenger side, i kept hitting some bracket. i bent it out of the way and finally got em on. enjoy your new power and louder exhaust...
 

KETCHUP

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one of the best mods you can do! Grats brotha! Now, just try to keep your foot out of the gas. I still haven't gotten over driving at high RPMs so I can listen to the sound of my headers and exhaust.....lol :laugh:
 

rice247

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I've never put in a set of header before. I was looking online and it states there is some welding involved. Did you need to weld anything or was it just bolt on?
 

dak-rt-2a-XR

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they are all bolt on...and they are easy to install if you go in from under the truck, not though the engine bay :top:
 

Gadget

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For that steering rod on the driver's side, it is easier to get the headers past there if you turn the wheel so that the coupler bolts are facing away from the header. That will give you plenty of room to slip the header past the steering rod and into position.

The passenger side is a bit tougher. You do have to remove, bend or somehow get that wire harness mount out of the say that holds that heavy cable to the inverter. Get that out of the way and then header will slip right past there. The other hard part is that it is hard to get the header over the studs without binding on the frame. It is just a tad tight there.

I have put several of these headers in and that gives me trouble every time. I end up fighting with it and then suddenly it pops onto the studs. You can take a very small socket and pull a few studs out of the head and that works very well getting it into position.

Overall, as far as header installs go, the long tubes on the 1GR are the EASIEST to install of any headers I have ever installed on a V6 of V8.

Gadget
 

SooRunner

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So what's the difference between the long tube and short tube? Sorry for the thread jack.
 

rat7761

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The long tubes replace the entire exhaust manifold assemblies. For the short tubes, you need to cut off the cats on the stock manifolds and weld them to the headers. Long tubes are the way to go.
 

rice247

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Any cali guys running these? Are you able to pass smog..legal
 

BSP06XRU

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Any cali guys running these? Are you able to pass smog..legal
The Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers and the URD Rear O2 Sim are not CARB legal and are for off road/racing use only.
 

Gadget

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Technically you should not be able to pass smog in cali with the DTLT on your truck.

Remember, a new vehicle does not have to be smog checked for the first 7 years you own it.

If you put the stock Y pipe in, you might pass the sniffer test.

If the shop does a visual inspection and knows what they are looking for the LTs should not pass, but from what I hear that does not happen to often.

G
 

SooRunner

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I'm not worried about the visual, but the long tube has to pass the sniffer. Is it possible?

Probably not since the LT eliminates the cats.

Right?
 
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