OEM and AfterMarket Fuel Pressure Regulator thread

Discussion in 'F/I Mods & Tuning' started by butters607, Jul 29, 2012.

  1. Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Member

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    So last week I finally hooked up my MAP sensor which I tee'd off from the boost nipple and added another tee to the stock fuel pressure regulator. I also capped the nipple to my afe intake so no vacuum line is running to it.

    Hooked everything back up reconnected neg battery terminal and everything seems normal. I noticed off the bat that my fuel trims were much better. From idle it went from:

    Bank 1 : -8
    Bank 2: -10

    to

    Bank 1: -4
    Bank 2: -6 and it's been holding for the whole week.

    The truck does seem to run better and even getting better gas mileage. Half tank I'm usually at ~140miles, where as this week at half tank I was at 165 miles. Weather is few degrees cooler here on Maui but still have lot's of humididty. Very stoked with outcome. Have a good one all!!
     
  2. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Excellent news!
     
  3. Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Member

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    Thanks TORPSD,

    Does this make sense or do you think that just by removing battery cable and resetting ecu made the difference?
     
  4. jarhead0313

    jarhead0313 New Member

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    so when the ucon comes out for 09+ plug and play I plan on getting the 7th injector too. Will the fpr conflict with the configuration of the 7th injector or will I have to change the fittings agian to make it work . Also I have the URD fuel pump upgrade, will that push enough fuel for my future setup?
     
  5. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Talk to Paul at Dezod and see if he can get you the color of AN fittings you like. He uses those all the time.
     
  6. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    If you plan on running something past 11 psi on your truck, while also using the FPR mod, or having added an aftermarket FPR, then you will need to upgrade your fuel pump to one of the other ones sold by Dezod or URD. Which can handle the increased fuel pressure.

    Last I was aware, the Walbro in the URD kit is the NON HP version (High Pressure). It doesn't like the increased fuel pressure. It will start showing signs of flow problems past that point that I mentioned earlier.

    You can sill use use the FPR mod if you want, and it will not conflict. It will only increase the fuel pressure just the same, and the UCON will remove fuel as necessary.

    Or leave it off, and be fine as well. I have a feeling that you will be purchasing the larger injectors as well, so they will help supply the extra fueling you need. The FPR mod just makes them able to go a little farther as well. :)

    Jarhead. Post #49 http://www.xr-underground.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=50532&page=2
     
    #66 Torspd, Dec 3, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2012
  7. jarhead0313

    jarhead0313 New Member

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    IT is never ending...the constant need for more power...and yes when I order the ucon,7th injector I will be upgrading to the larger injectors as well, might as well do it when I take the blower off for the exhaust cams... ha:top:
     
  8. Toon714

    Toon714 New Member

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    I like more boost.
     
  9. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Don't we all...lol.

    If the pump from URD is the non HP model i guess as long as it provides whats needed it should be good to go.
     
  10. Toon714

    Toon714 New Member

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    I want 50psi and go kaboom.
     
  11. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Nah bro....with that built engine your getting it'll keep goin.
     
  12. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Just like all parts, it has its limits. When they are reached, it needs to be upgraded.
     
  13. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Can we get a pic of where it hooks up? I would like to see it.
     
  14. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Where what hooks up where?
     
  15. Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Member

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    Here's a shot with my MAP sensor installed:



    map.jpg



    As you can see I have a tee on the supercharger boost nipple which branches off to my AEM boost gauge and one line to my MAP sensor (the MAP sensor actually reads both vac/boost so I have two boost gauges going). Then from MAP sensor I tee'd off to stock fuel pressure regulator, and simply capped off the nipple on my intake. I may replace the aem boost gauge with fuel pressure gauge down the road.
     
  16. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    The fuel supply hose....your supposed to cut the old one and slide on the new one right? So pic of that union and how do u cut it. Dont want your truck to explode right....lol
     
  17. Toon714

    Toon714 New Member

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    ^Didnt I text u where to.cut the hose?

    Ill snap a pic of it for u when ibsee my truck.at the shop in a lil.
     
  18. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Yeah but how'd u do it?
     
  19. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    This picture on the 1st page, post #8, clearly shows that you do not cut any part of the factory fuel lines.

    [​IMG]

    That blue hose is -6AN, or 3/8" hose, and is a push lok style. You need that for the line leaving the FPR. It needs to be that style or similar, rated to at least 100 psi, and -6AN or 3/8" I.D. So that when you connect it to the steel hard line on the driver side fender well, it will slip over the barbs. Then you hose clamp it down.

    You do not cut or tamper with any of the OEM lines, other than removing them.
     
  20. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Sht i get it now....dang it! So its like a vacuum hose on a barb. Jee wiz. Alright those push loks r cool but i'll probably have mine crimped. I always go to hydraulic supply stores for this for reliability. Aeroquip #1. Thanks guys. Sorry bout that.
     

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