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Discussion in 'F/I Mods & Tuning' started by iniazy, May 27, 2014.
Good deal. What all kind of work or improvements do you plan?
.020 bore, forged pistons 9.5:1 CR, forged rods, head gasket, new stiffer springs, new valves, no sleeving this time.
Placed my order with LCE, doing a ceramic coating as well. Needs five weeks lead time.
That's the usual time frame.
Build it up, and go after the guy making ~800whp.
Have you reached that yet? Last I checked you were around 500
I'm not sleeving the block, so I won't want to push it that far; I'd be perfectly happy with JUST 500.
In my dreams.....
Finally I get my rebuild kit.
Ceramic coated forged pistons
Valve train parts
ARP head studs
Piston old vs new
I looked at the head gasket from top line. I didn't feel confident, worried it's not top notch. Has anyone have used top line products? Any feedback? That's what LCE supplied me with.
Never heard of them. Have you looked up any reviews on them?
They used to supply Cometic. They clearly felt the need for a change.
I tried to find reviews and failed.
I'm now trying to figure out a way to get my hands on torque plates to use for honing my block. Or perhaps make some. I really don't want to hone it without torque plates.
Well, Kozmic Motorsports, here in Houston, has a machine shop which made mine. Just get it made to the bore diameter which you need.
Or try to find the shop to deal with directly.
I found a machine shop who's willing to make it for me for a very reasonable price. I already started pulling my old motor out. I'm back to business.
I intend to make just one, so I would machine one bank at a time. Why waste money on two torque plates?
I only had one made as well. Just need to use each bank's respective head gasket,
Getting things going. My machinist says I need a one-step larger main and rod bearing set, to get things fitting perfectly. So looking around now to buy the bearings. Not sure it is worth sending back my old ones. But I'm happy I found a machine shop who will meet all my needs. He even has a CNC machine, so I'm going to have him machine grooves in my aluminum intake manifold, so that I won't need to use RTV gasket maker anymore.
That'll be really handy, for the intake.
Have you found a source for the bearings yet?
Yeah I'll get the same brand, TopLine, from LCE. I'll get a .01" oversize.
I finally got my engine out, after a long painful struggle with the tight fit. Extremely difficult to get to the top bell housing bolts right behind the coolant elbow. There isn't room unless I remove the elbow, and removing the elbow is a nightmare with the tight space. Toyota must have intended for the engine to be removed with the transmission as one unit.
Notice how the oil pan looks like in the Fortuner/Hilux 1GR engines. This is because of the tight space, the front axle and steering ram sit right underneath the engine, so the pan is in front of the axle, not behind it as in most other trucks.
Yeah, it's oily. Very oily.
I spy a Mustang front bumper....
That is a very different design, from our oil pans. All about the packaging.
Yes that's my brother in law doing a procharger supercharger install on his mustang V6. i offered him to use my facility for his build.
Our design has a downside to it. The weight distribution is severely affected and approach angle is relatively poor for a serious off roader.
One has bolt got damaged, rounded off with all the torque. I used an Allen type socket on the 12 head star bolt, and the socket was a little worn.
All other bolts unscrewed fine except this one.
I had to drill off the bolt head; those things are so strong, it destroyed three cobalt drill bits before finally the fourth one made it through.
Wooooowww. At least your determination won.
Good thing you have the APR head studs from LCE. They should be drop in and problem free. 75 ft-lbs.
About time to send it to the machine shop?