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Discussion in 'F/I Mods & Tuning' started by iniazy, Aug 18, 2014.
Put a smaller pulley on.
Was that other boost achieved on the stock engine?
Yes on stock engine.
Smaller pulley will over spin the rotor beyond factory specs, and I had the same size pulley previously.
Just might be inlet restrictions. But I'm really happy with the power, feels so good even though it's max boost is not what I hoped for.
I'll just live with it. Tired of worrying about it.
Your last explanation sounds right. Move volume = more power. PSI doesn't really mean much. Lots of variables that can change boost.
I want to buy the intake system with filter compartment that comes with the URD mk3 kit. Anyone willing to sell his? I know some people, @shane881510 , who have replaced it with an open pod filter.
Anyone wanting to sell his lemme know.
Still quite small filter, and that snorkel(?) hose might cause a lot of restriction for air flowing too.
I agree, I'm looking to find a way to fit a larger filter. However, it is much larger than the old one, and I was able to make 10.7 PSI from the old one, with the same flexible duct and a smaller supercharger. So can't be the reason.
Have you tried running with just a large cone filter, for testing purposes? To see if any differences were had? Or briefly with no filter?
No I didn't. Not good for the engine, air will be too hot even before compression, will result in bad knock at WOT. I don't want to take the risk. It will be sucking in hot air leaving the radiator, further heated by the headers.
I tried it without the supercharger and was knocking bad, imagine how it would do with a supercharger.
Then maybe you should talk to whoever you're buying those intakes from, to make a larger one.
I'm trying to get my hands on a URD intake. That would be awesome.
A few new updates, no pictures, so get ready for a write-up.
1. I have learned something new. If I suppress low RPM knock by retarding the timing at low RPM, the engine will take a leap in performance while suburban driving. I retarded the timing down to -3 degrees at low RPM, at bout 0 PSI, and now driving the truck feels so good even at hot weather while the A/C is on, almost as good as it felt when the weather was still cold. I remembered an article I read in Gadget's blog about this subject, when he was tuning the TRD supercharged Tacoma 3.4 Liter V6. But the reason I didn't think I needed it is that the article said it is most important in Manual transmissions. Well I now know it is also necessary for Automatics, for best driving performance. Was a great learning experience.
2. I put the truck on the Dyno. The figure produced is nothing to be proud of, so I'm going to ommit putting a number. The reason is I street-tuned my truck, did not dyno-tune it. Although the truck feels really good driving it, I really rarely go WOT, which is why I did not notice a lack of top-end power. The tuner said I'm running way too rich, going below 10.5:1 from 3000 RPM up to 5500. He said I need to lean it out to improve the output. The reason why I had it so rich is to suppress knock. So I decided to lean it out, and then retard the timing if there is knock. I read several opinions on forums that the rule of thumb in timing is you drop 0.8 degrees for each PSI of boost. Since I am reaching 10.3 PSI, I decided to retard the timing 8 degrees at WOT, gradually. I started leaning it, and now I am at 11:1 AFR at WOT, and very little knock. I still hear some knock if I do several consecutive runs, which is probably due to heat soak from the water-air intercooler. But nothing serious. Now it does feel a lot stronger at WOT. I'm wondering if 11:1 is still too rich, as I see many people going up to 11.8:1 and 12:1, but I am keeping it at 11:1 because I know my truck's factory tune goes down to 11:1 at WOT even when with standard equipment. I tested it before installing the supercharger and injectors. So I won't want to be leaner than factory. Even when observing the AFR in my Mazda Miata, at around 7000 RPM the AFR does go down to 11:1, on factory tune without a Supercharger. So I believe this should be a safe AFR.
I still doubt I'm hitting 300 HP with the current power, I don't know how you guys are managing 400+ HP with the smaller supercharger and smaller crank pulley. Even with the current setup I'm only making 10 PSI at sea level. Is it the Dyno in question? Maybe.
3. I now work at another town that is 600 meters above sea level, while I live on a coastal town at sea level. I found that at my work town, I lose 1 PSI of boost. Here I only manage 8.5 PSI, while at home I manage 9.5-10 PSI. That's an interesting observation that explains why I always feel a little weaker at work.
I hope I didn't bore you guys to death without pictures
Almost 2k feet elevation.
What type of dyno is it?
Can you datalog the or even one knock sensor?
Mustang. But it is the same dyno I used to dyno the truck before the supercharger.
Unfortunately the MAP-ECU3 cannot sense the factory Toyota knock sensor; it only works with old GM knock sensors, and I have not got one. But I have an amazing ability to detect knock with my naked ears The other day I test-drove a Nissan GTR, completely stock 2016 year model, with 95 RON fuel, and I was able to hear some knock in the engine. This gave me confidence in my knock-hearing ability. I have supernatural hearing, when it comes to knock.
When people are riding with me, they would be surprised to hear me say: did you hear it? And they would go: hear what? The knock, didn't you hear it? No, didn't hear anything.
For some reason for me driving along side of a guard rail really echos knock very nicely. Something about the material and shape. That is my knock test other than data logs. Not sure if you have those there or if they are the same style.
Interesting. Yes we do. I'll try it.
I'm thinking why not use the factory coolant water circulation in the water-air intercooler and cancel the electric water pump and reservoir. I can take the coolant from the oil cooler under the oil filter and route it through the intercooler heat exchanger and intercooler itself and then back to the engine. Might have better flow and reduces the parts that are subject to failure. Any suggestions on that?
I don't know enough on the subject to say no, but can only think that the coolant will be much warmer from the engine than without? Perhaps.
Do you have some pictures or diagrams on how the two systems are interconnected?
On some AMG vehicles the engine cooling systems and intercooler systems are interconnected and some are not.
This is why I was thinking of routing the coolant through the additional heat exchanger before going into the intercooler cores, for additional cooling.
There is a coolant hose exiting the thermostat housing and going into the oil filter to cool off the engine oil. The outlet of the oil cooler goes back into the thermostat housing for circulation. I'm thinking of intercepting that hose and routing it through the intercooler heat exchanger, into the intercooler cores, and then into the thermostat housing, thereby eliminating the electric water pump and reservoir.
Will the water flow be sufficient from the engine water pump or not is the question.