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Discussion in 'General Off-Topic Discussions' started by skygear, Feb 11, 2020.
Well, if you get the Stage III you don't need to worry about buying a thermostat cuz you'll get one that opens at 160°. Are you pullin' the motor? If so, perfect time to change the clutch / flywheel, TOB, short shifter. Also, when you get the Stage III, you will be getting 2 exhaust cam gears that are paired to your new thermostat and UCON - EMS. You have a long road ahead of'ya. I wish you the best of luck, I loved every minute of it!!!
Call URD Tech Support. Dial 3. Gadget is the man you want to talk to. But if the 81 is the blower that comes with the kit, Stage 3 with that blower is 440hp. The 92 leaves room for future upgrades but you’ll be pulling the engine to build the bottom end if you go that route....
If you’re really trying to push things I’d look at a full build.
With an automatic transmission, you're already ahead of the game. If you look up the leaderboards for fastest TACOMAS, you'll notice that there ARE many automatic Tacomas on the list. Don't worry about having a manual tranny unless your getting a T-56. Don't downgrade to our 6 speed. But don't just build for Horsepower... you gotta get the power to the ground. The Bilstein shocks in the rear gotta go ( 18 way adjustable QA1's will help you squat )and you may wanna use some traction bars to "hook up". Depends on what you're trying to achieve. Either way, there's tons of support on this forum and URD Tech Support is second to none!
The C38-91 and the C38-92 are the very same supercharger with the only difference is the inlet. The -91 is 3" and the -92 is 3.5" and necks down to 3". The perform the same.
The -91 bolts right up to the URD supercharger kit and if you want the -91 instead of the -81 we can certainly do that. We just install one size pulley larger on it to get you started.
My last dyno on my truck was with the -91 and made 540 RWHP with an 80mm pulley and an aggressive tune. My normal street config is the standard tune with a 75mm pulley. This is with a built engine.
There you go, right from the horse’s mouth.
If u go with urd, get the the -91 it don’t cost any different but save u shit tons later if u wanna go bigger. I run the -92 but bought the kit with the -81 had to pay a lot to upgrade later on. Wish I had the 38r all ready. But to costly.
The 38r has pulleys they are made for Honda’s 12 rib I think. The brackets for 38 and 38r are same. And yea just reduce the coupler.
Congrats, have fun with the install!
All your PDF's will be on a thumb drive. I bought insulators for the new fuel injectors. I think you can use the old ones, but I chose to buy new ones.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injec...r:2005|Make:Toyota|Model:Tacoma|Trim:X-Runner Extended Cab Pickup 3-Door%7CEngine%3A4.0L 3956CC 241Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated%7CSubmodel%3AX-Runner%7CEngine - Liter_Display%3A4.0L
It's easiest to pull the fuel rail up evenly after removing the fuel line quick connect.
Remember to pull your fuse for the fuel pump to kinda empty the line and relieve pressure before you start. You don't need any special tools for the fuel quick connects.
Use an air wand to clean around the injectors before pulling them out so you don't accidentally get any debris in those ports. Have fun!
I've had issues loading pics.
I've got my complete disassembly / reassembly on my phone. I just tried to load one... fail
Okay I'll try again, but back to what you have going on...
It's as good a time as any to take care of the timing cover leak ( if yours is leaking, info on TSB thread )
And since it will be more accessible, when changing your headers I would get the new exhaust manifold studs to replace the original ones.
URD has the C38R-112 in stock ready to ship!
I found the part #'s digging through my "build" receipts. I bought it from Summit Racing.
ARP-434-1301 Stud Kit
ARP-100-9909 Assembly Lubricant
Go ahead and buy some stud extractors also. I had to use the extractor for 1 stud on the drivers side and 3 on the passenger's side. It was easy to do, but then again I pulled the motor / tranny.
That's the one I used. Tighten it up by hand on the stud, then twist them off with a 24mm combination wrench. Use a good penetrating oil. Work it back and forth so you don't snap it off. If it doesn't break loose on the first try, start again. It isn't hard to drill'em out, but if you're doing all the work in the engine bay, you'll run outta space quick.
I thought LCEPERFORMANCE was outta business. I tried to buy the Exhaust Manifold Studs from them to no avail...
It's a file size issue.