Stiegemeier Porting info

Discussion in 'F/I Mods & Tuning' started by Whitebeauty, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. sdxrunner619

    sdxrunner619 Active Member

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    Sparky at 16psi had severe ring land failure....

    Rebuilt and ported heads, intake, throttle body, etc.....and added at headers. So drooped it down to 12psi. Remember, boost psi is just restriction to airflow...
     
  2. Bulldogger

    Bulldogger New Member

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    Yes it is a matter of restriction but it is also relative to the amount of heat produced. That little intercooler can't handle 16psi. First the supercharger is mounted to the engine which only adds to heat soak and the intercooler is small. You could probably run 16psi on a stock engine for a while if you can control the heat. Also when sparky rebuilt the engine what compression pistons did he go with??
     
  3. 5H4D0WD347H

    5H4D0WD347H New Member

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    This is why nitrous and TRD boost work so well together :-D
     
  4. Bulldogger

    Bulldogger New Member

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    You ain't gonna cool any better then that
     
  5. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    I think with the concerns you are addressing all other types of variables to prevent such issue should be addressed. Eg. E85, 7th Inj, Meth kit, cryo kits you get the idea...Just like to see how this goes..
     
  6. darthyota

    darthyota Active Member

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    a cryo kit would be good to help combat heat soak been thinking about one myself for a while now
     
  7. sdxrunner619

    sdxrunner619 Active Member

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    This is exactly the reason why i pull my hood off when i go to the track... The hood/ambient heat from the motor doesn't get trapped, and further heat up the S/C's after-cooler. On top running a 160* t-stat, my S/C after 2 back to back runs (30 or so seconds of rev-limitter abuse, WOT...etc) , i can actually touch the snout, I/C coolant lines, and even the front I/C Condenser.



    I've accepted the fact, that unless i run NOS, im not gonna SAFELY get anymore power out of the TRD unit. Its general design is flawed, and with out expensive reworking (porting, re-gearing, machining, e-85/meth injection), you really cant squeeze much more power out of it. I'm happy with it's torque band, and it works for what i need it to do. :rockon: Its no champ when it comes to d*ck measuring dyno runs, but my trap times, tire smoke and torque curve (or their lack of), speak for them self's. :smile:

    Remember Whitebeauty what i told you, this kit WILL NOT make awesome peak numbers...but it makes loads of USABLE power. :top:
     
  8. darthyota

    darthyota Active Member

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    And that sir is why its hard to beat lots of usable power throughout the powerband would some of us like more yes who wouldn't but trd makes their stuff to be safe and reliable not make monster power
     
  9. Whitebeauty

    Whitebeauty New Member

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    Well said Kev. My goal exactly is to make tremendous reliable and usable power. I can picture the dyno graph already. Quik spike off the line n steady stream with slight down slope across.
     
  10. 5H4D0WD347H

    5H4D0WD347H New Member

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    Nope and the spray picks up the power on the top end where the TRD strays off resulting in a massively wide power curve.
     
  11. bobber bill

    bobber bill New Member

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    Yes, you can.

    What sort of devastating results? I did mine and have no complaints...

    [​IMG]

    These pictures are after only the first round of polish, they got a full mirror polish before install:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
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    Well done. :top:
     
  13. Aspen_S/C

    Aspen_S/C Member

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    I just had them re-build my TRD S/C, turned it around in 3 days, it's on the way back. Now if those damn "You are dee" ceramic headers would ever ship, I can get this stuff all done....
     
  14. Tom2769

    Tom2769 Member

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    Aspen, what did they include in the rebuild? Reasonable price?
     
  15. 30Birdy

    30Birdy Member

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    +1, I'd like to know too.
     
  16. Aspen_S/C

    Aspen_S/C Member

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    As per Bob:

    "We fully disassemble the supercharger, the front drive and the rotor pack. We replaced the bearing and seal in the front drive and remove the rotors from the pack and replace the seals and bearings in those as well, we are the only company who can return the rotor pack to manufacturer's specifications. We also replace the rear bearings and clearance the case. After that it all goes back together and it's like you have a brand new supercharger again. When we disassemble it we will give you a call and tell you exactly how everything looks and our recommendations - if something doesn't need to be replaced we won't replace it unless you want us to, we will tell you how much wear is in the rotor pack and how much life is left in it as well and you can determine what you want to do at that point."

    That was $695 plus shipping out and back. Figure about $100-$130 for shipping.

    Spec-U headers.....where are thee....
     
    #56 Aspen_S/C, Oct 10, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  17. Aspen_S/C

    Aspen_S/C Member

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    Well things were not exactly perfect with these guys on my S/C re-build. I waited to make this post to give them enough time to reply to my emails and phone calls and got nada, so here goes...

    About two days after getting the blower put back on and about 100 miles in, the nose drive starting leaking S/C oil from the rear of the drive where one puts gasket sealant around the mating surface. I have dealt with pulling the nose drive before and figured doing it my self would be a hell of a lot faster and cheaper than having either my shop or Stiegemeier doing it.

    So when I went to drain the oil, it came gushing out of the filler hole to the tune of a few ounces before it stopped at the threads which is widely regarded as the amount to fill it at ( 6 oz ). I think all told I drained close to 8 oz before I could no longer get any in the syringe, obviously they overfilled it, might have blown the seal.

    Then I get the nose drive pulled and find that they either lost or damaged the O-ring that goes in the intake area between the main S/C body and the nose drive, filled it with some grey sealant that was no where near cured, very goopy. I looked down the intake tube and none of it had gone down that I could tell but it took awhile to clean it up. Since this is a low pressure area of the S/C, I made an O-ring out of one from a hardware store with some black RTV to fill the end then cleaned up the rest of the gasket surface area and put the right sealant on ( Permatex ).

    150 miles later it is not leaking a drop of course but the whole experience of them not getting back to me is a bit or a head scratcher. I don't like to throw folks under the bus but once you give them a chance and get silence, well.....here we are.

    Just an FYI I suppose....
     

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