Write-Up: Fog Light Mod (always on)

Discussion in 'How-To' started by K2, Jan 13, 2007.

  1. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    Option 2 and 3 seem to be the preferred method for this mod.

    Source: http://www.toyotanation.com

    Read all of these install instructions prior to attempting this fog light modification. I cannot be held responsible for any damages or personal harm resulting from this modification…Hopefully this small article will help you as well as others feel more confident about tackling this relatively simple modification... This is only intended as a guide for others, so please treat it as such.


    Well my fog light mod is complete and here is the final picture result... I've done a step by step photo of this process from every nut and bolt, to wire and tap so a extremely detailed write up will be posted soon... I base my write ups towards someone thats completely retarded (no offense intended) to be able to complete the task. If your 5 year old child who's never seen a car before can't follow my write up instructions, then I haven't written them good enough... Anyhow, I’m gonna break this mod down into three separate ways to do this. The first one is the way I personally completed this mod which is definitely the most time consuming of the three, the following two show easier methods of completing this modification. The second way is basically the exact same as the first, though a top view of doing things. Finally the third way is another option towards completing this mod, however I’ve heard that in some cases if the fog light button is left on, your fog lights will sometime have a tendency to flicker on/off after 4-6 hours of sitting… strange I know… Personally, Option #2 is the best/easiest way to complete this modification, however Option #1 (the way I personally did mine) is the cleanest of them all.

    SO LETS GET STARTED, OPTION #1:

    Parts/Tools that you will need:
    - Ratchet
    - 10mm Socket
    - 12mm Socket
    - Optional: Long Extension
    - Flat Head Screwdriver
    - Pliers
    - Wire Strippers
    - (1) Male Butt Connector
    - (1) Female Splice Connector
    - Optional: Extra Wire (I didn’t use any personally)

    STEP #1

    Remove battery… To do this, you’ll need to remove the single 10mm nut that’s closest to the front of the truck. The two battery terminals (both positive (+) wire and ground wire (-) require a 10mm socket as well to remove. WARNING: DO NOT TOUCH THE POSITIVE (+) AND NEGATIVE (-) CABLES TOGETHER…THEY WILL SHOCK YOU BELIEVE IT OR NOT). Once you’ve removed the bracket nut, and have the the positive and negative battery cables moved a side, remove the battery bracket and pull the battery out. You honestly don’t need to remove the battery though it will made the job easier when it comes to reaching certain bolts, moving around the fuse block, etc..

    17.jpg

    28.jpg

    STEP #2

    Remove the fuse panel cover so you can see all your individual fuses. There is a clip on the firewall (right) side of the black cover that you’ll need to pry back to get the cover off.

    39.jpg

    STEP #3

    Remove the (3) 10mm nuts that hold the actual fuse panel in place.

    47.jpg

    STEP #4

    Unplug the three plugs at the top of the box… there are (2) plugs that are about a inch long or so, and a smaller 6 pin pug that’s roughly a half inch wide… Note where this plug is. There is a SOLID LIGHT GREEN wire on this plug that we’ll be concentrating later on..

    55.jpg

    STEP #5

    Once the three plugs are removed, you’ll want to release a piece on the top of the box that the those three plugs come through… to do this, there are two tabs, one on each side that you’ll have to pull outward… once you have both tabs pulled outward you’ll be able to slide that section of the box upward to move it out of the way….

    67.jpg

    STEP #6

    Remove the 12mm nut located on the top left side of the box. Once this is removed, you should be able to slide the 3 plugs completely out of the way.

    73.jpg

    STEP #7

    Now the harder part…. Be patient with this one because this is by far the hardest, most frustrating part of the entire modification. Now that all plugs are unplugged and moved away from the fuse panel, you’ll have to use your flat head screw driver and wedge the tabs located around the entire fuse panel. While wedging the tabs, you’ll want to wiggle/slide the entire fuse panel upward. The fun part is, the fuse panel won’t slide easily so you’ll have to use your favorite curse words several times until you have the panel released..

    84.jpg

    STEP #8

    Once you have the panel slid up where you can see all the wires underneath (you’ll have to jimmy the entire panel around using a decent amount of force), you’ll want to find a thin SOLID RED WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE that leads to where the upper right pin location from the actual blue fog light relay. This particular wire is located sorta near the right edge of the panel and runs upward near the location of the 3 larger plugs we removed in step #4.

    92.jpg

    STEP #9

    Once you’ve found the correct RED WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE you’ll want to find roughly the middle of the wire and cut it in half… You’ll cap off the side of the wire that leads to the top portion of the fuse box and the other half we’ll be using to slice into a light green wire but we’ll come back to that in a second.

    101.jpg

    STEP #10

    Find the SOLID GREEN WIRE… to do this you might want to scroll back up to step #4 and see where the Plug/Pin location is so you’ll have a reference point. Looking under the fuse panel, the SOLID LIGHT GREEN wire will be located pretty much in the middle of the upper portion of the entire panel… By noting Step #4 and where the plug/pins should be, you’ll be able to find this wire fairly easily.

    113.jpg

    STEP #11

    Once you’ve found the LIGHT GREEN WIRE and you have the RED WITH BLACK STRIPED wire cut in half, you’ll want to follow the green down to roughly its half way spot where you’ll be adding a female butt connector to… Make sure if you’re not using any extra wire, that your red wire will be able to reach where you’re putting your female connector on the green wire.

    122.jpg

    STEP #12

    Now put your Male butt connector on the end of the red/black wire that leads to where the fog light relay will be plugged into.

    131.jpg

    STEP #13


    Once you have both your connectors attached, plug the red wire into the green wire… Now your wiring job is complete and you’ll be ready to start putting everything back in its original condition.

    STEP #14

    Tuck your all your wires back in and you can start sliding your fuse panel back into its box. Once you have your fuse panel snapped back into its box, I personally plugged in everything (remember to attach the cable to the 12mm nut location from step #6), attached the cables to the battery and started the truck just to make sure everything worked correctly…

    STEP #15


    Once you’ve double checked that everything is working properly, the fog lights indeed are turning on and off, you can remove your battery again and start reversing these steps until all your bolts are tightened down, your battery is back in its correct location with all the cables attached and plugged in properly… Now you’re done with this mod, your fuse panel still looks untouched and your fog lights can now remain on as long as the ignition hey is turned on and the fog light butting is engaged.

    OPTION #1: FINAL PRODUCT/LOOK
    142.jpg

    NOW TO OPTION #2 (Same as #1, only the from above):

    Parts/Tools that you will need:

    - Wire Strippers
    - (1) Male Butt Connector
    - (1) Female Butt Connector
    - (1) Female Splice Connector
    - Approximately 1 Foot of wire (pretty much any gauge wire will work, doesn’t have to be anything crazy thick… 16-20 gauge is just fine)
    - Small drill bit and power/cordless drill

    Basically what you’re doing here is removing the light blue fog light relay which is located in the center/right side of the fuse panel under the 1”x1” light gray relay. Once you’ve found the correct light blue relay, remove it and bend over the TOP RIGHT PIN of the relay. Add a female butt connector to the end of your spare wire and plug it into the pin that you’ve bent over from your relay… Plug your relay back into its location.
    FLM_001.jpg
    Now, run your wire up towards the top of the fuse panel. You’ll notice you’ll have to go through a thin wall of black plastic to gain access into the location of the three plugs. Drill your small hole so you can continue to run your wire to the 6-pin small white plug that we’re aiming for. Once you’ve got your wire up near the 6-pin plug, locate the SOLID GREEN WIRE which is the top left corner of the actual plug. Use your female splice connector/male butt connector to splice your additional wire into the SOLID GREEN WIRE. Now you’re finished with the fog light modification. Place your fuse panels cover back on and enjoy your new free mod.
    FLM_003.jpg
    FLM_002.jpg

    Photos courtesy of K2


    NOW TO OPTION #3:

    Parts/Tools that you will need:

    - Wire Strippers
    - (3) Female Butt Connector
    - Approximately 6 inches of wire (pretty much any gauge wire will work, doesn’t have to be anything crazy thick… 16-20 gauge is just fine)

    STEPS #1-5

    Find your light blue fog light relay, remove the relay and bend the top right pin from the relay to the side pointing outward, Attach a female spade (quick connect) connector to the bent relay pin. The other end of this wire will run to one side of a 5A fuse. Once you have your wire running from the relay to one end of the fuse, now run a wire from the other side of the fuse to the red 10A fuse that’s located directly to the right of the relays location.. Now you’ve completed this modification. Something you might note doing this modification this way, I’ve heard that in some cases if the fog light button is left on, your fog lights will sometime have a tendency to flicker on/off after 4-6 hours of sitting. The fog lights evidentially will come on for a minute or so then turn off repeating this process every 4-6 hours…

    OPTION #3: FINAL PRODUCT/LOOK
    151.jpg
    Original image taken from Pb2theMax from Toyota Nation.
     
    #1 K2, Jan 13, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: May 7, 2010
  2. Rodboy

    Rodboy New Member

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    cant see pictures anymore
     
  3. project-c2

    project-c2 New Member

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    I was going to say that too. Maybe the original host took them off. Oh well. I like option 1. Less likely for the dealer to see if anything was done to the fuse box.:top: Stealth I tell you.
     
  4. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    Yes, the original host has taken down the photos. I'll learn to steal them in the future. :biggrin: I actually went for option 2. It took about 10 minutes and doesn't require removing anything other than the top to the fuse box. I wrap my fogs the entire 1833 miles of my trip to Florida and didn't have a single problem with option 2.
     
  5. XRunninTaco

    XRunninTaco New Member

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    anyone in Socal know how to do this??? i wanna do this Mod so BAD!:motz:
     
  6. Troskey

    Troskey New Member

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    this isnt the same thing i got done while i was in orlando, is it?
     
  7. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    Go with option 2. It takes 5 mins, one faston female terminal, one piece of wire about 10 inches long or so and one quick splice --- and you're done.
     
  8. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    Yup - same thing that Michael was doing for everyone.
     
  9. XRunninTaco

    XRunninTaco New Member

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    so if i go into kragen ... all i ask for is ... (1) Male Butt Connector ... (1) Female Butt Connector ... (1) Female Splice Connector ... and wire???:dontknow:
     
  10. wshsbears

    wshsbears New Member

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    this is NOT the same set-up i was doing at XFM. it has the same outcome.. (the switch for the foglights works w/out turning on the headlights) What i was doing was soldering a wire about 3 inches long onto the top right prong of the fog light relay and attatching that wire to the red 10 amp fuse right above the relay (towards the firewall). this way works just as well..

    i'll try and get a pic of it today after i get outa class and post it so that everyone knows the difference.
     
  11. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    Is there any difference as far as safety goes? Or any difference electrically? Why did you choose to solder it Mike?
     
  12. wshsbears

    wshsbears New Member

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    thats how i learned it. rob has it that way as well as many others. the lights turn on after 4 hours or whenever the ecu turns on when the truck is off.. its just a simple way to do it and thats how i know to do it. won't mess anything up and u probably did basically the same thing. all it does is disconnect it from the headlight harness and connect that prong to something that is on whenever the vehicle is turned on.

    just a different set-up. i had the same thing on my 06 and rob has had his for a while too and no problems. our battery's can handle hours of playing blaring music with amps hooked up and all, fog lights for a minute won't affect anything.
     
  13. K2

    K2 Administrator
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    I'm not sure I follow you here. The lights turn on after 4 hours??? :hmmmm2:
     
  14. wshsbears

    wshsbears New Member

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    #14 wshsbears, Mar 20, 2007
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2007
  15. project-c2

    project-c2 New Member

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    I think I will still do the opt 1. Sounds more fun.
     
  16. XRobber

    XRobber New Member

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    It is real easy to explain how this mod works.
    From the factory, the fog light switch will only work while the headlights are on.
    this is because the fog light relay only gets 12v power when the headlights are on.

    By removing the relay, bending the top right prong out of the socket and feeding it a seperate 12v signal, you can operate them anytime you want. The reason we use that fuse, is because it is triggered with the vehicle's ignition.

    there is absolutely nothing unsafe about doing this mod, and it takes 2 minutes to do.
    I personally have installed it on 20+ tacomas, and Michael has done a whole bunch also.
     
  17. project-c2

    project-c2 New Member

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    I finally did the foglight mod option 1. Took 45 mins total. Now that I understand it, should take 20 min. uploading pics and I'll come up with something.
     
  18. XRunninTaco

    XRunninTaco New Member

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    what did you need ... i wanna do this on saturday ... did u just get everything that was written in the write up???
     
  19. project-c2

    project-c2 New Member

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    Hold on just got the pics on photo bucket.
     
  20. project-c2

    project-c2 New Member

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    Disclaimer:I did this mod on my own and if you do not understand some of the terms listed. I would ask or PM, I will be more than willing to help (remember I live in HI so give me some time to respond.) I know there are easier ways to do this, but I like the hidden look. I think this voids warranty, but what the dealer can't see won't hurt.

    Tools I used:
    flathead screwdriver
    12mm 1/4" drive deep socket
    10mm 1/4" drive deep socket
    1/4" ratchet
    3 in long extension
    small wire cutter
    crimping tool
    2 butt connectors 20-22 gauge

    step 1:
    I removed the battery terminals (10mm)and cover to the fuse box. This is what you should have in the pic below. There are 2 white wire clips on the fender side of the engine bay that hold the big wire harnesses going to the fuse box unclip those.
    [​IMG]

    step 2:
    Remove these 3 plugs and the nut (12mm) holding down the power cable. Right next to the terminal you will notice the harnesses are ziptied to a panel, the sides have 2 little locks that youu can lightly bend out with your fingers and slide the whole panel out to remove these wires out of the way. Notice the smaller of the three plugs has a green wire. This is the wire you will need later.
    [​IMG]

    step 3:
    Looking closely on the inside edge of the fuse box are clips holding the top half of the fuse panel into the outter shell. Using the flat blade, I gently unclipped and worked the upper fuse panel out. The hardest part by far. Take your time. I worked from the 3 plugs removed area toward the fender side. Looks like below. Now you can remove the 3 bolts (10mm) on the outside that attatch the lower cover to the fender.
    [​IMG]

    step 4:
    Now, the fun part. Remove the foglight relay. Check fusebox cover for location. Look for a red wire with a black tracer that goes to the silver pin of the relay toward the cabin side and wiggle the wire, you will see the terminal in the fuse box wiggle also. Estimate half way and cut. I put a butt connector on the part that goes toward the front of the fuse box to terminate it. The side that goes to the relay will go to the green wire.

    Now look for the green wire that went to the small plug and wiggle that wire and you will see the terminal in the fuse box wiggle also, cut the green wire near the loose end of the red/blk wire. I put the red/blk wire and one end of the green wire into another butt connector and the loose end of the green wire into the other end. Refer to pic.
    [​IMG]

    step 5:
    Reassemble the fuse box without pushing the upper panel all the way in. Hook up the removed wires and 12mm cable and install battery with terminals. Make sure everything works properly then push the fuse panel all the way in. Finished product should look like this.
    Fog light will work as long as ignition is in the ON II position.
    [​IMG]
     
    #20 project-c2, Mar 21, 2007
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2007

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