Write up - Intake assembly removal/valve cover removal/painted valve covers

Discussion in 'How-To' started by S7ICKlVlAN, Apr 1, 2012.

  1. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    VHT Wrinkle Plus – 1GR valve covers

    Tools required
    10mm socket/wrench
    12mm socket/wrench
    Long/short/med extensions
    Hex socket (intake manifold bolts)
    Linesman Pliers (clamp removal)
    Torque wrench (inch & ft/lbs)
    Razor blade (trimming masking & cleaning sealant on head)
    Long blade screw driver (disconnecting clips at rear of manifold/misc)

    Optional tools
    Telescopic magnet (picking up tools/fasteners)
    10 & 12mm ratcheting wrenches
    Extended 45-90 degree needle nose pliers (removing clamps on TB)
    4’ Ladder (reduced strain during installation)

    Equipment required
    VHT Wrinkle Plus (or desired) paint (1 can)
    Acetone (or other evaporating thinner/solvent)
    Hi-Temp RTV silicone (reseal valve covers)
    Painters masking tape
    Shop towels

    Optional equipment
    Heat gun/oven (speed curing)
    Ziploc snack baggies (removed fastener storage)

    Purpose for modification
    Aesthetic improvement of existing raw finish valve covers

    Introduction
    The following is (to the best of my recollection) a step by step documentation including intake system removal, EGR removal, valve cover removal, and the consequent reinstallation of all aforementioned on a 2012 1GR Tacoma with updated EGR system. If you have a 2005-11 1GR you will be able to forego the EGR removal steps. I am writing this after having spent the last 6 hours doing the project, I’m tired, hungry and my back hurts. That being said, I will do my best to outline as completely as possible, all the steps required to do this successfully. Anywhere applicable, I reinserted any fasteners I removed back into the original locations to minimize the loss/confusion during reassembly. Where not applicable, I labeled snack bags and kept all removed fasteners in the bag until reassembly. I do not assume any responsibility for any injuries/damage should you decide to use this as a guide for your project.

    Intake system removal
    Step 1 – Disconnect negative battery terminal
    Step 2 – Remove intake cover (2) 10mm fasteners at front of cover. Lift and pull to remove
    Step 3 – Disconnect intake at TB by loosening 10mm band clamp and pull assembly free of TB
    Step 4 – Remove (3) 10mm fasteners holding base of EGR pump.
    Step 5 – Remove (2) 12mm bolts securing intake duct near pass fender
    Step 6 – Disconnect vacuum line at rear of intake assembly
    Step 7 – Disconnect PCV line from manifold
    Step 8 – Pull entire intake system up and towards the driver side of vehicle. Make sure to pull the intake duct assembly clear of the passenger side fender. Remove entire assembly from vehicle

    Intake manifold removal
    Step 1 – Disconnect coolant lines from TB assembly using needle/linesman pliers
    Step 2 – Disconnect crossover tube bracket (leave hoses/misc connector attached) by removing the 10mm bolt holding the bracket to the manifold. Use the 10mm wrench/ratcheting wrench
    Step 3 – Locate and disconnect (2) wire harness fasteners that are plugged into the manifold. 1 is at the rear of the manifold and the other is located towards the rear and above of the pass valve cover
    Step 3 – Disconnect tube from drivers side valve cover to MAP/BP check valve on manifold
    Step 4 – Remove PCV tube located in the middle of the manifold
    Step 5 – Remove (2) 12mm nuts at the front and rear of manifold base (Torque to 19ft/lbs on reassembly)
    Step 6 – Remove (4) hex bolts (sorry forgot the hex bolt size) at the center of the manifold base (Torque to 19ft/lbs on reassembly)
    Step 7 – Disconnect TB and MAF wire harnesses
    Step 8 – Remove (2) 12mm bolts from brackets on the driver side of manifold
    Step 9 – Remove (1) 12mm bolt from bracket located at the front of the manifold assembly
    Step 10 – Lift intake manifold assembly up and out of engine bay
    Step 11 – Cover intake manifold base with drop cloth to avoid foreign objects from entering the intake tract
    Step 12 – Disconnect crossover tubes and misc connector from the bracket you removed from the rear of the manifold. Use the blade screw driver to gently release the clips locking the connectors in place
    Step 13 – Reinstall the bracket to rear of intake manifold to prep for reassembly

    EGR removal
    Step 1 – Remove (2) 12mm nuts holding EGR sensor assembly to pass valve cover
    Step 2 – Remove (1) 12mm bolt located near the exhaust manifold at the bottom of the EGR sensor assembly
    Step 3 – Remove (2) 10mm nuts on EGR pipe from rear of the sensor assembly
    Step 4 – Remove (2) 10mm bolts on EGR pipe from fender side of sensor assembly
    Step 5 – Remove bracket 10mm bolt and disconnect EGR sensor harness
    Step 6 – Lift assembly up while pulling forward and remove from engine compartment

    Passenger side valve cover removal
    Step 1 – Remove brackets at front and rear of valve cover (2) 10mm bolts
    Step 2 – Remove (3) 10mm bolts holding spark plug boots in place (Torque to 80 in/lbs on reassembly)
    Step 3 – Disconnect (3) sparkplug wire boots and drape over intake manifold base
    Step 4 – Pull wiring harness connectors free from top side of cover using the blade screw driver to aid in removal
    Step 5 – Remove all (10mm) fasteners (bolts/nuts) from both the center and perimeter of the valve cover (Torque to 80 in/lbs on reassembly)
    Step 6 – Carefully lift valve cover and maneuver free from wiring harness and out of the engine compartment
    Step 7 – Cover exposed valvetrain with drop cloth to avoid foreign objects from entering lubricant circulation system
    Step 8 – Using the razor blade, scrape sealant located above the cam gears on the surface of the head where the valve cover sits
    Step 9 – Wipe any residual silicone/oil clean using the acetone and shop towel. This should leave this surface prepped for reinstallation process

    Driver side valve cover removal
    Step 1 – Loosen bracket (the one that held the manifold in place) located at the front of the engine. Pivot down and out of the way
    Step 2- Remove bracket (1) 12mm bolt located at the rear of the driver side head that the manifold was fastened to
    Step 3 – Pull the wiring harness free from the valve cover assembly using the flat blade screw driver to aid removal
    Step 4 – Disconnect (3) sparkplug wire boots and drape over intake manifold base
    Step 5 – Pull wiring harness connectors free from top side of cover using the blade screw driver to aid in removal
    Step 6 – Remove the (2) 10mm nuts holding the oil filler neck to the valve cover assembly and remove oil filler neck the from engine compartment (this step can be done after valve cover removal so as to use the filler neck as a leverage/lifting point)
    Step 7 – Remove all (10mm) fasteners (bolts/nuts) from both the center and perimeter of the valve cover
    Step 8 – Disconnect (2) rear fuel injector connectors to allow for more play in the wiring harness (helps with removal/installation of valve cover
    Step 9 – Lift valve cover assembly up and maneuver towards the front of the engine to remove.
    Step 10 – Cover exposed valvetrain with drop cloth to avoid foreign objects from entering lubricant circulation system
    Step 11 – Using the razor blade, scrape sealant located above the cam gears on the surface of the head where the valve cover sits
    Step 12 – Wipe any residual silicone/oil clean using the acetone and shop towel. This should leave this surface prepped for reinstallation process

    It is important to note that the VHT Wrinkle Plus paint is a slow drying product that (ideally) needs to be cured in an oven at 200 degrees for 20 minutes to best results. This may not be viable for you unless you have an oven dedicated for industrial type use, as the fumes emitted from the paint may render your cooking oven toxic. If you cannot oven cure the paint once applied, use of a heat gun will aid in optimizing the best cured finish. I would also recommend painting the valve covers and leaving them in the direct sun for as long as possible before installing them. I masked and reinstalled all fasteners in the valve cover prior to painting to avoid getting paint in the threaded areas of the valve cover and to maximize coverage with the VHT Wrinkle Plus paint. I would strongly recommend this as well.

    Prep/Paint process
    Step 1 – Using the acetone and shop towels, thoroughly wipe all grease/oil/dirt from the surface designated for painting. The better you prep, the better the paint will come out, so be thorough
    Step 2 – Mask all tubes/studs/mounting surfaces on the valve cover, using the razor blade to cut clean masking lines around the mounting surface masks
    Step 3 – Apply coat #1 of VHT Wrinkle Plus paint to the prepped valve cover surface. With this product you can make all coats fairly heavy, but be careful not to cause runs. Also note, spray entire coat in a single direction. Keep nozzle 6-10” away from painting surface
    Step 4 – Once initial coat is applied, allow 5 minutes to dry
    Step 5 – Apply coat #2 going across the grain of coat #1 and repeat step 4
    Step 6 – Apply the final coat. This coat is meant to ensure complete coverage of all areas of the valve cover surface. Lay this one on decently heavy
    Step 7 – This step can be done using an oven (see intro to paint/prep) or you can air cure. I air cured and expedited curing using a heat gun
    Step 8 – BE PATIENT AND LET THE PAINT CURE. The valve covers can be handled within a couple of hours, or you can really take your time and let them cure overnight

    Installation is the reverse of removal except that you will need to place a bead of silicone on the mating surface of the heads where you previously removed the factory sealant. (2) medium sized beads should be all you need. TAKE YOUR TIME AND MAKE SURE ALL ELECTRICAL, VACUUM, COOLANT, EGR connections are made. If you air cured your valve covers, now is the time to start the car up and let the engine heat finish the curing process. Allow the engine to get up to operating temp and then run it for 20-30 minutes before shutting it down. Do not open the hood until the engine is completely cooled down to maximize curing process. If nothings leaking/rattling/burning and no CEL indicators have popped up, pat yourself on the back cause you did a good job, and now your valve covers are another show piece that few others will have.

    Here's some pics to go along with the write-up

    Before pass side
    [​IMG]
    After
    [​IMG]

    Before driver side
    [​IMG]
    After
    [​IMG]

    Before valve cover
    [​IMG]
    After
    [​IMG]

    Before VHT Wrinkle Plus
    [​IMG]
    While curing
    [​IMG]

    Intake removed
    [​IMG]
    After
    [​IMG]

    Completed pics
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #1 S7ICKlVlAN, Apr 1, 2012
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2012
  2. BSP06XRU

    BSP06XRU Old Member

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    :adore: Great job and awesome write-up! :top:
    Looks like you had a productive weekend so far!
     
  3. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    Thanks brutha. Lift goes in tomorrow! :blurock:
     
  4. black_120

    black_120 New Member

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    really diggin' how the color of your valve covers pops out in the engine bay. reminds me of the Corvette valve covers on the LS1.
     
  5. Workman3886

    Workman3886 New Member

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    Love it! This may be a project for me when I get a CAI
     
  6. JiNsEiGaNaI

    JiNsEiGaNaI Active Member

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    Reallly good write up!
     
  7. 1GRracer

    1GRracer "Pete"

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    Fantastic write up!
     
  8. Torspd

    Torspd Moderator
    Staff Member

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    Great job on that write-up, again! This will be extremely handly for the '12+ members/future owner.

    :adore:
     
  9. blackx-runner

    blackx-runner "White Flash"

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    Awesome write up man. Thanks!!!

    And the finished product looks great. :top:
     
  10. xrgilly

    xrgilly Active Member

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    this paint would look sexy on the intake piping of the urd tcai hmmm thinking i might do it with a bright blue colour
     
  11. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys. I tried to catch everything, but I was really tired by the end of it (just got off back surgery).

    I hope this can help someone get the job done a little easier. :cheers:
     
  12. Moneyblind

    Moneyblind New Member

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    What kind of back surgery you have to go through mate? I just had some serious mods installed into my back in january. (Thats my back in my avatar)
     
  13. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    Micro discectomy...gotta go back in for my neck this year too. :thumbdown:
     
  14. I<3JDM

    I<3JDM New Member

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    110% SICKNESS!!! :blurock: great write up. something im looking forward to do in the future. Thanks
     
  15. COMAtose HI

    COMAtose HI New Member

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    thanks for the write up!!! i'll just wait for you to come to the big island and help me lol.
     
  16. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    LOL sounds like a plan. :D
     
  17. Xrunner Drifter

    Xrunner Drifter Active Member

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    Very awesome and complete write up. 
    Seeing this makes me less afraid to do it.
    Someone is going after TROTM
     
  18. Moneyblind

    Moneyblind New Member

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    Damn man, good luck with that! Keep us up-to-date for sure.
     
  19. S7ICKlVlAN

    S7ICKlVlAN New Member

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    drifter - It ain't that bad. The pay off is worth it!

    Kody - Thanks fam. Will do.
     
  20. x8o8runner2012

    x8o8runner2012 New Member

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    nice writeup.....thanks
     

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