blown diff

Nashman

Active Member
Well put some good drive time into the diff and got my lsd additive set right

I really really like this diff is still has a clunk feeling but I mostly blaming the leafs and my sticky 275 out back and it will get better just like my kazz diff did. I could get rid of the clunky feeling by running a synthetic redline 75/90 witch comes mix with an addtive mixed in. I ran redline in my mini truck because the truck was just so light and made the diff smoother very smooth.

what I am currently running is penzoil gl5 80/90 none synthetic wich has a 3% lsd addtive added in and then I add about 1/4 bottle to my rear end and for now , but for break in I used 1/2 the bottle .

but what I really want is a gl5 75/90 none synthetic and will be much better for cold morning tell the diff heats up and the diff get abit looser
 

Nashman

Active Member
Still happy i did the swap but the clunk feel is still there in tight slow parking lot turning and is getting lesser as i drive it but the truck just feel so much better.


this weekend i will make a sticky how to do the upgrade and the pros and cons of the different ways of doing this upgrade


well chow for now
 
to bring this thread up. i have burnt the LSD pack up in my truck its a one-tire fire only. it sucks bad but it has 200,000 miles of beating on it. about 50,000 of those miles are full throttle and launching it.


i went to the dealer to try to buy just the LSD unit to install into the 3rd member. they gave me a part number after pulling up my VIN but the part number crosses over to all sorts of stuff like base model 4cylinders and sequoias. i know my truck has the LSD in it cause that was one of the options, and the rear diff has the LSD sticker on it. but this parts cross over looks to be a standard open style diff that comes in the base models. can any of you guys cross this part number over and see what it comes up as and see if it is actually the LSD equipped assembly.

41311-34010

http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth....0?origin=pla&gclid=COSTk4Lkw8wCFdgBgQodKWIN8g


all i wanted to do is purchase a brand new assembly and install it in the 3rd member and rock out. this thing is only like $350 which is more than half of what it takes to put the True Trac in. i was thinking of just doing the new chunk but after reading up on this thread i am wondering if i just need the spring and shim kit to tighten the packs up. when the truck was new it would bark the tires when turning tight. now its a 1 tire fire only. and it sucks nuts.

if any of you can reply here or email me with the info i need if this is the correct part number for my truck with the LSD. if its not can you please help me figure out what is the correct part number

adam@airdamclutches.com
 

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
No stud girdle. That's an open rear differential.

Also that part number is just for the carrier not for the third member. Are you looking for a whole third or just the carrier?
 
2008 Tacoma TRD sport. it's the Xrunner look alike that's on the 4wd frame. Hood scoop painted bumper and handles and mirrors. The TRD sport comes with LSD and 3.73 gears.

I wasn't wanting a whole 3rd member. I was wanting just the guts of the chunk that carries the LSD to just swap over to my diff. I am sure the gears are fine. No need in spending $1400 on a whole 3rd member. Getting the actual LSD pack and installing it is what I had in mind. But after reading the above postings about re-springing and shimming the LSD pack to make it hold tighter strikes some interest. However mine has 200,000 miles of pulling a trailer and full throttle launches racing it ect. I have probably got all the good out of the clutch packs. They're probably worn beyond a spring and shim fix.
 

x-runner kid

Active Member
Actually chances are the packs just need a shim and spring. The things that ruin clutch packs are one tire fires constantly. A hard launch if anything will just lock together and be fine. And for $40 you can't go wrong. If anything you should be able to just order the clutch discs and plates from the dealer seperate.
 
Mine is an auto. So it's never had a high rpm clutch dump of anything like that. I started noticing it a little while back when climbing a hill and I started spinning. Only throwing one rooster tail of dirt. I was pisst. It's happened a few times since on hill climbs. And a few weeks ago I went to the drags and with slicks and vht I was still a one tire fire and it sucked so bad. The guy that posted above never went into any length on the long term effects of the spring and shims. I won't think I would mind a little chatter or grabbing on tight corners. It used to do that brand new. What's the life expectancy on the clutch packs you reckon ?
 

Gadget

Well-Known Member
The OEM LSD in my XRunner lasted less that 30,000 miles.

I believe the same diff is in my 05 Tundra with a URD Supercharger on it and that truck has 115,000 miles and I think the LSD is just starting to give up now.

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop? I think it varies greatly.....

G
 
Well is that due to the pressure placed against the clutch packs due to the spring and shim. In which case adding more pressure to them would get a little more life out of them. I don't mind purchasing a whole new carrier that holds the clutch pack assembly and installing a brand new one if any of these super wizards with a parts fische can actually figure out what the part number is to buy that actually had the LSD. I don't particularly want a whole 3rd member. I asked the parts dept at two different dealerships and you can't buy just the clutch packs. My local driveline shop couldn't get them either. So, replacing the center carrier in the diff that holds the LSD is my current standing. It's cheap. $350 from what all the parts fische show but which one is the right one. I hate to buy it and end up with an open diff like whats in a base model 2wd truck.
 

Nashman

Active Member
The OEM LSD in my XRunner lasted less that 30,000 miles.

I believe the same diff is in my 05 Tundra with a URD Supercharger on it and that truck has 115,000 miles and I think the LSD is just starting to give up now.

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop? I think it varies greatly.....

G

Just re shim it the coatings ware off I removed my coating for this very reason


and they are metal plates so they last a very very long time un like fiction lined disc's
 

Nashman

Active Member
Well is that due to the pressure placed against the clutch packs due to the spring and shim. In which case adding more pressure to them would get a little more life out of them. I don't mind purchasing a whole new carrier that holds the clutch pack assembly and installing a brand new one if any of these super wizards with a parts fische can actually figure out what the part number is to buy that actually had the LSD. I don't particularly want a whole 3rd member. I asked the parts dept at two different dealerships and you can't buy just the clutch packs. My local driveline shop couldn't get them either. So, replacing the center carrier in the diff that holds the LSD is my current standing. It's cheap. $350 from what all the parts fische show but which one is the right one. I hate to buy it and end up with an open diff like whats in a base model 2wd truck.


in the frist coupl f pages in there is an aftermarket pack you can buy from yukon gear
 
I am referring to one post earlier that there is a pack from Yukon that replaces the packs in our rear diff. That is an Eaton clutch pack. Does that mean our toyotas have a factory installed Eaton posi-trac unit? and these clutch packs from Yukon are what replace our diff? i called a sales rep from Eaton and he said he had zero knowledge of toyota using an eaton in any vehicle ever. and he didnt think the clutch packs i gave him the part number from that was listed above would actually fit my truck. any ideas?
 

Nashman

Active Member
It's noted it fits when I frist looked it up but really there is no need for it when you add in a helper spring. The lined discs are nice to run if you don't have the option to run the spring because the lined discs will bite harder but have a down fall of wareing out. Now if you keep the factory discs and run a spring your should really never have to adjust it again or for many thousands of miles if you remove the coatings off the discs
 
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