Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Clutch Thread

Ken

New Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2020
Messages
6
Reaction score
2
First off, Thanks.

Looks like there is a bit of extra free play before pedal touches black plunger button. I'll adjust to hopefully buy some time and not grind gears once or twice a day.
Further investigation seems to confirm T/O bearing will need to be replaced. And with the labor to get to it - seems a full clutch replace is in order.

Can we machine the flywheel, or is it a remove and replace? I would like it lightened a bit. But it still needs to be a reliable daily driver.
 
Last edited:

NHXRUNNER

"New Hampster"
Staff member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
8,001
Reaction score
305
First off, Thanks.

Looks like there is a bit of extra free play before pedal touches black plunger button. I'll adjust to hopefully buy some time and not grind gears once or twice a day.
Further investigation seems to confirm T/O bearing will need to be replaced. And with the labor to get to it - seems a full clutch replace is in order.

Can we machine the flywheel, or is it a remove and replace? I would like it lightened a bit. But it still needs to be a reliable daily driver.
Can you resurface the oem flywheel? Yes. Would I? No. Go with the URD lightweight steel flywheel and stage 2 or higher clutch. Best way to eliminate the T/O noise nowadays is the clutch masters hydraulic release bearing.
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
Again, I agree with NHXRUNNER.
Lightweight STEEL is the key. Lightweight ALUMINUM will never be my preference for daily driving after having that setup in my '94 Celica ST Turbo.
 

NHXRUNNER

"New Hampster"
Staff member
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
8,001
Reaction score
305
Again, I agree with NHXRUNNER.
Lightweight STEEL is the key. Lightweight ALUMINUM will never be my preference for daily driving after having that setup in my '94 Celica ST Turbo.

Yes, I heard lots of complaints about chatter with the aluminum back in the day.
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
Woof! It's been awhile!
Help me Jesus, help me Tom Cruise - use your witchcraft on me!
Today.... I FINALLY replaced my clutch master cylinder....
First - the best way to do it is to remove the entire pedal assembly. 2 nuts, one bolt, lowering the dash, and removing the lines at the firewall next to the brake booster.
I bought my truck at auction, so I secretly blame the mess of wires my pedal got hung up on ( breath ) - on the previous owner... ( still trace'em every time I remove the dash )
It was an easy job and in my mind I just knew I'd be driving the X tonight....DERP.... I can't get into ANY gears while the truck is on.... when it's off, I can pick any one of'em and slide right in... the pedal adjustment is the right distance from the floor...
Secondly ( better late than never ) - if / when you have to pull out the clutch master cylinder... do the "pedal mod"... don't be like me and drill it in place cuz I didn't think I needed to do it.... install was easy, but when I depressed the clutch, the truck wouldn't start because it couldn't engage the pedal switch. Thank heaven I have a 12Volt Milwaukee with a 3/8" chuck cuz DAMN that coulda sucked...
Oh yeah, like I said in the beginning... please help... thanks - Jason
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
Update:
I've replaced my short shifter for the Hurst shifter and although I've gotten rid of ALL the play on the stick... I still can't get in any gear when the truck is running.... with it off, I can literally flick the shifter through every gear...
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
When trying to go in gear, I can hear a whine
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
Last thing I tried... starting the truck already in gear... what a mess... it felt like the truck was trying to start and tow a 40' trailer at the same time... I bailed and turned the ignition "off"...
Does anyone have any suggestions / advice?
I'm not keen on dropping my tranny again after so much work, but I think after taking care of the "simple" things... that may be where I'm heading...FML
 

Gadget

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
10,932
Reaction score
173
Update:
I've replaced my short shifter for the Hurst shifter and although I've gotten rid of ALL the play on the stick... I still can't get in any gear when the truck is running.... with it off, I can literally flick the shifter through every gear...

Most likely your clutch is not fully releasing. You may need to adjust it to get the proper release.
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
Hey Gadget, thanks for replying. So do the pedal adjustment again? When I removed the old master cylinder, I made sure the dimensions and stroke were the same as the new one.... It's set up to where it's pretty much only got 2 threads left before the nipple falls off the rod. I'll try and try some more, thanks for the advice!
 

Gadget

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
10,932
Reaction score
173
Might need to be bleed/flushed again.

The release system on this truck is super hard to flush out. The way it comes out of the firewall and then make a couple of loops before going down to the trans is an air trapping mess.

One of the best ways to do this is with help. Crack the bleeder and have someone work the pedal and have someone else tap on the hard lines near the engine with a screw driver. That tends to release the bubble and makes them flow.

Give it a good flush, then see if you need to tweak the adjustment.
 

mejbro

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
212
Reaction score
81
I'll try that, I did the little cheat with raising the rear.
I have the speed bleeder, deleted the accumulator, and bled from "the fix" first ( next to the speed bleeder ) when I removed the master cylinder I used the plugs from the new one to keep the reservoir and lines from leaking. I knew there would be air, but I figured it would be before the speed bleeder... but yes, I will try again. Thank you sir
 

TRON

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Messages
480
Reaction score
3
Speaking of clutches, how are those CM hydro bearings working out? Quite a few of us purchased them from the group buy on TW. And there have been quite a few who installed them and had leaking seals. Did you install yours @NHXRUNNER
 

ChasinCloudz

New Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
20
Reaction score
7
@TRON I got mine, installed just over 1k mi ago along with a slew of other things. I'm a pretty aggressive driver and works just fine. During the week there's short bursts where I'm only driving like 3 mi each way. Weekends it's longer drives around 30mi or so each way on SoCal fwys. I also held onto mine for a few months in the bed along with other parts I was going to install. Developed some surface rust on the bearing races. Perfectly fine.

Every company is going to have certain batches that are prone to problems. The reviews I've seen are also a small percentage. It's like that old saying where you can do 99 good things and 1 bad thing, people are quick to point out the 1 bad thing and forget all the good. And I'm not saying they have 1 or 2 problems, these are batches so there are going to be multiple. But you also only really run into posts about the negative stuff and hardly anything positive with reviews. You might've ended up with one from said batch, you might not have, so it's up to you whether you want to use it or not.
 

TRON

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Messages
480
Reaction score
3
@TRON I got mine, installed just over 1k mi ago along with a slew of other things. I'm a pretty aggressive driver and works just fine. During the week there's short bursts where I'm only driving like 3 mi each way. Weekends it's longer drives around 30mi or so each way on SoCal fwys. I also held onto mine for a few months in the bed along with other parts I was going to install. Developed some surface rust on the bearing races. Perfectly fine.

Every company is going to have certain batches that are prone to problems. The reviews I've seen are also a small percentage. It's like that old saying where you can do 99 good things and 1 bad thing, people are quick to point out the 1 bad thing and forget all the good. And I'm not saying they have 1 or 2 problems, these are batches so there are going to be multiple. But you also only really run into posts about the negative stuff and hardly anything positive with reviews. You might've ended up with one from said batch, you might not have, so it's up to you whether you want to use it or not.

I agree on the basic principle of batches and having a few bad apples but I don’t think 1k miles on this particular CM product is enough time to be giving any positive reviews. The failures are happening in the 5k-15k mile range. Regardless, curious what you long time members have to say that purchased this.
 
Top Bottom