Help! Problem with transmission and URD stage3 clutch

x-runner kid

Active Member
Basically went to Napa and bought a double sided female coupler that both the hydraulic lines thread into. Was a $7 part instead of buying a new one that costs $60-80.
 

Eraser

New Member
Why does everyone talk about "properly adjusting the clutch" and "make sure you properly adjust it."
But no one will use their keyboards and say how?

U guys talking about clutch alignment during install? Adjusting the pedal? Talking dirty to the transmission while shifting? Someone tell me some things im goin crazy.
 

x-runner kid

Active Member
A chiltons book will explain it all. It's basically adjusting the pedal. You should have the proper amount of movement before and after the clutch engages and disengages. If I remember tomorrow when I get off work I'll better explain this process in the technical terms.
 

phfireman

Member
I have had to adjust the pedal almost all the way out in order to shift at all same issue! Now I can't shift into 1st or reverse if the truck is running and standing still. Doesn't seem to be an issue while driving.
 

x-runner kid

Active Member
I have had to adjust the pedal almost all the way out in order to shift at all same issue! Now I can't shift into 1st or reverse if the truck is running and standing still. Doesn't seem to be an issue while driving.

It's not an issue while driving because the truck is moving. If you have your clutch all the way adjusted out and it's still not fully releasing its most likely going to be air in your lines. I have my clutch adjust exactly where it's supposed to be and sometimes it works perfectly and others I have to pump the clutch a few times or even get the truck to roll when I put it in gear. This is due to air in the lines somewhere. There are several ways to bleed the clutch but for most of the methods it's best to have an extra person. It's very similar to bleeding the brakes. Power bleeders from the reservoir work the best.
 
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