as the title says, I snapped my carrier bearing where the driveshaft and diff meet. I had been having bad axle wrap after lowering my PreRunner. The driveshaft may be saveable, but the carrier bearing is completely snapped. went to to kick a Hondas ass from a dig, and snap she went, I went nowhere... my question for yall is, would a trac bar prevent axle wrap and prevent me from snapping these in two? I like to accelerate and have a heavy foot all the time... what are my options to prevent from snapping carrier bearings?
 

ryanschmidt

Member
the carrier bearing is the center of the two drive shafts, not where the drive shaft and rear end meet. if your pinion angle isn't correct it can cause extra stress on the u-joints and carrier bearing. If the rear end is having excess vertical movement under a load or in reverse, assuming you removed the u-bolts to install the lowering kit, the nuts on the u-bolts may not be tight enough.
 
Last edited:

fishsticks

Because fast lifted truck.
What do I do, tighten the u bolts really tight?

73ft/lbs according to the FSM. They should be retightened after a few hundred miles as well.

Do not overtighten them, you can bend the axle tubes.

Also, did you use blocks to lower? Anytime blocks are used, the mechanical advantage the axle has to twist the springs is increased. It's why you see torque arms on the huge bro-dozers with 10+ inch blocks.
 

ryanschmidt

Member
Be sure to tighten in a cross-pattern. What is it that you broke? I lowered my Silverado 7" in the back (flip kit, shackles) and all was fine for about 200 miles. Then I noticed when under a load in drive or reverse I would get an extremely Loud CLUNK. One day I had a buddy get the truck under a load so I could watch what was happening and sure enough, the axle housing was twisting in the u-bolts. My guess is the u-bolts stretched. I tightened them to spec and the noise went away.

Also, pinion angle is very important. You will have drive line vibrations which will also cause accelerated wear/ and excess stress on u-joints and carrier bearing, as well as the output shaft. You should always check pinion angles, using an angle finder, before and after modifying suspension. Nothing is more annoying than forgetting to check the pinion angle before you lower your truck, then having to hunt for the right angle with no base number to go by.
 
Be sure to tighten in a cross-pattern. What is it that you broke? I lowered my Silverado 7" in the back (flip kit, shackles) and all was fine for about 200 miles. Then I noticed when under a load in drive or reverse I would get an extremely Loud CLUNK. One day I had a buddy get the truck under a load so I could watch what was happening and sure enough, the axle housing was twisting in the u-bolts. My guess is the u-bolts stretched. I tightened them to spec and the noise went away.

Also, pinion angle is very important. You will have drive line vibrations which will also cause accelerated wear/ and excess stress on u-joints and carrier bearing, as well as the output shaft. You should always check pinion angles, using an angle finder, before and after modifying suspension. Nothing is more annoying than forgetting to check the pinion angle before you lower your truck, then having to hunt for the right angle with no base number to go by.

So cross tighten each set of u bolts to 74 ft-lbs. Also would the trac bar help the situation? Ur description sounds identical to me
 

Gadget

Well-Known Member
I would love to see a picture of this snapped carrier bearing if you can post it up.

G
 

justin13703

Active Member
A traction bar would help prevent wheel hop. Chances are nothing got loose or was way too out of whack. There are plenty of trucks here lowered much more than yours that are fine. Wheel hop will destroy stuff when you beat on it. That's just how it is. Usually, a lowered Tacoma, with no trac bar, when launched from a stop will wheel hop like crazy. You have to get off of it when it does this or you'll end up in your situation.
 
A traction bar would help prevent wheel hop. Chances are nothing got loose or was way too out of whack. There are plenty of trucks here lowered much more than yours that are fine. Wheel hop will destroy stuff when you beat on it. That's just how it is. Usually, a lowered Tacoma, with no trac bar, when launched from a stop will wheel hop like crazy. You have to get off of it when it does this or you'll end up in your situation.

So a trac bar and I can get on it?
 
So how exactly is the diff/axel tunes sitting on the leafs? Is there a perch or bracket welded to the axle tubes to keep them from twisting?
 

Torspd

Moderator
Staff member
I installed Calvert Racing trac bars to prevent the axle wrap. The 4x4 leaf springs twist very easily.

I later installed the XR leaf springs. Was able to drive and hammer down with almost no axle wrap. Still using the trac bars with the XR springs.

Either way, you need trac bars.
 
I installed Calvert Racing trac bars to prevent the axle wrap. The 4x4 leaf springs twist very easily.

I later installed the XR leaf springs. Was able to drive and hammer down with almost no axle wrap. Still using the trac bars with the XR springs.

Either way, you need trac bars.

Do the XR leafs Drop it more?. Got a link to Calvert?
 

STONER-X

Active Member
I had luck installing the leaf spring helper (the bars) on the front side of my leafs... All hop was gone after that..

Anytime you move the axle up or down with out moving the original mounting spot (ex. lower leafs or lifted leafs) you need to think of the good old leverage rule because it will multiply the amount the amount of twisting force on that given area...
 

justin13703

Active Member
So I have read all this and the consensus is go. Trac bar. This is correct? Bud built, Calvin racing, or URD? What's yalls experience?

Personally I like the URD it looks nice, doesn't hang down real low and seems to work very well from people's experience. And it's good to support one of our vendors.
 
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