TRD Supercharger Maintenance??

[Coupe]

A little impatient maybe?

I used Supercharger oil from GM, Part # 12345982. GM dealers stock this. It comes in 4 oz bottles.

I have talked to several people about the amount to put in. I put in 8oz (two bottles) I have been told this is too much. Some people say 4 oz. I have not had any leaks so far.

I used an anaerboic gasket maker from permatex 5813. Loctite makes one also. Loctite number is 518. This is an non hardening gasket material. A thin bead on one surface.


Torque specs I am unsure of. With the size of the bolts, I would guess about 15~17 ft/lbs.

 

[Aspen_S/C]

Not really impatient, just need to stay on schedule. This site is great, but good god some of the support outside of here is just flakey at best.

Magnuson said 20 foot pounds on the torque. I have done this before, I just misplaced the paper PSE sent back in 08.

I am debating on not even pulling the nose off and just doing the oil, but I want to take out the rotor pack and clean the oil and goop off in prep for the oil catch can install if it is not a major task.

It would be awesome if someone did a sticky on this, start compiling a list of what is needed for various stages of maintenance. At some point, you guys are going to hit high mileage and want to change snout oil, re-build nose drives, even main S/C bearings and all that jazz.

By the way, I found the oil bottle PSE sent me, it is 6 OZ in the nose drive. I remember I kept it to use the extra 2 OZ left from the two 4 OZ bottles as a pre-oil swap flush if I did not feel like taking the nose off.

Thanks Coupe!

Now....anyone pull the rotor pack out to clean it and the inside of the main S/C housing and if so, what was your procedure and how did it go?

 

[Gadget]

Generally, 6mm bolts are torqued to 12 lb-ft. 8mm bolts are torqued to 14 lb-ft.

PSE sent you 6 oz of oil and you only put in 4??

G

 

[Murderface]

The reason there's no sticky on this topic is because everyone gets rid of there Tacoma before it falls apart. I know I don't trust this truck as much as I did my 83 Celica GT back when I owned that.

 

[Aspen_S/C]

PSE sent you 6 oz of oil and you only put in 4??

G

No, I put in all 6, but when I went to stock up on oil for the next change, I found the bottles only came in 4 OZ sizes needing me to buy two and contemplated what to do with the other 2 and came up with the idea of using it to pre-flush.

The reason there's no sticky on this topic is because everyone gets rid of there Tacoma before it falls apart. I know I don't trust this truck as much as I did my 83 Celica GT back when I owned that.

A lot of people use their trucks for fun, a hobby, an outlet. Most use them to get from point a to point b, for their job. A trace few get to write off the entire vehicle as it is used as a tool as is in my case. For the entirety of my 24 year career, I have chosen Toyota trucks as my primary tool to access the spaces I have to work in, I would not do that if they fell apart.

Here is another example of a person who uses their rig like I do. I put no less than 200 days a year on the road with this rig, it's not for coming close to blowing my motor in a 1/4 mile or to provide dyno sheets to frame on my wall. The blower in the low end off road with over 1,000 pounds of extra gear is simply essential, it actually keeps me out of trouble by being able to finesse over some serious crap and always find a good power to gear ratio regardless of elevation, incline or speed. Yes, a stock Tundra would do better at handling the load, but frankly it is too big for a lot of the places I go.

I'm sorry you have had a bad experience, it does happen. For the rest of us, a sticky would be great since this site has the single greatest resource for F/I Tacoma mods thus far, for that, I don't mind wading through all the "Octane-Junkie" stuff to get to what really matters. There is a big, big difference in how you approach maintenance like this and the support that goes with it when it is not only your job on the line if you can get it done or not but your reputation and your career.

That being said, I can appreciate and respect what you all do on here and to your trucks in trying to push the limits, it lets the rest of us know where those limits are and I really appreciate the help. I also appreciate what Gadget does which has not been at all what I have experienced with other aftermarket auto companies. It took me awhile to realize that compared to all my other dealings with support for my tools, I am really on my own here and that is why I come off so serious, I simply have to be.

Admin: Make a "TRD S/C Maintenance" sticky ( Sorry, vBulletin search features are not so good, I own a site ) and I will donate $50 to the site if it starts to fill up with good info.

Regards,

Dan

 

[Aspen_S/C]

Ok, looking at the pics coupe posted, if I recall correctly, the prongs that come off of the rotor have to fit a certain way in regards to the spiral spring on the coupler end. From what I vaguely remember, the prong that rests against the spring has to go on the non-rounded side of the slot where the spring is so that when rotation is applied to the blower, all three of the prongs rest in the rounded end of the slots.

This speaks to me as mechanical common sense but the fact I am asking it ****really**** speaks to the need for a sticky on the subject of key maintenance aspects of this model blower.

Toyota won't tell you this, TRD won't tell you this and after three emails and two phone calls to PSE, it seems they have no interest in giving me any customer support because at this point in time, I am not sending them my nose drive for a re-build like I did last time when they bent over backwards to answer any question I had.

Totally frustrating...

 

[Gadget]

I have not used one of those spring loaded couplers, but I would suggest that you install the side with the spring on the input or rotor shaft first so you can get the drive pin on the correct side of the spring.

Trying to line that up reinstalling the nose drive would be very hard.

Am I making sense here?

G

 

[Aspen_S/C]

I have not used one of those spring loaded couplers, but I would suggest that you install the side with the spring on the input or rotor shaft first so you can get the drive pin on the correct side of the spring.

Trying to line that up reinstalling the nose drive would be very hard.

Am I making sense here?

G

Yeah, but ultimately you still need to have it on the nose side for the final install anyway so if I do take the nose off today, I will do like when I take a camera lens apart and carefully pay attention to what side the pin is on before it is fully disengaged. I ended up not getting a new coupler because I could not get a reasonable shipping time quoted on the TRD kit from any supplier.

As much as I want to clean out the rotor pack and inspect the coupler area, I think I might just spin it by hand to check it and just do the oil, new belt and new plugs.....

And considering that an engine should still be warm when doing so, how does one do a compression check on the drivers side bank if you have to take the blower off to even get the plugs out?

 

[Aspen_S/C]

So we got it done....sort of...

Nearly everything was cake, pulling the fan off, new belt, snout oil, easy-peasy. We cleaned the crap out of everything. All the bearings were good, the snout oil was a nice medium golden color with no junk in it, not bad for 65,000 miles. All the plugs looked evenly worn, blower turned smooth.

We took it nice and easy getting the blower back in place. My wife, who loves to help with this stuff ran and got a tube of anti-seize when I got lazy having forgot to pick it up, insisted I used it on the manifold bolts in addition to the plugs.

All smooth sailing until...

We started working in the bolts evenly, gradually upping the torque on each one. We got to about 19 foot pounds on the 3rd bolt back ( blower discharge side ) from the front and "SNAP"....broken bolt....WTF?

Pulled all the bolts back off, pulled the blower off and took out the busted bolt by hand, good thing for anti-sieze. I called toyota to see what they thought about in getting a new bolts, they would have to order it. So in talking more to them, I decided to drill out the S/C manifold threads in that position since according to the dealer, all they do on the blower side is allow you to pre-set the bolts before you put the blower on., but are not used beyond that, hence the reduced shank bolts.

Got another bolt, went at it again, got the same bolt that I swapped a factory one from another position on, just short of 19 foot pounds, mother effing "SNAP" AGAIN!!!!!

On one hand, I wonder if it is my torque wrench, a range of 25-250 inch pounds, or just about 21 foot pounds max which is what those bolts are supposed to be at. But on the other hand, the other bolts gradually build up resistance until it clicks while the problem bolt position just feels too smooth up to 18-19 foot pounds and then the bolt snaps in half about 3/8 of an inch above the intake manifold......really effed up.

So we bolted up once more, set everything at about 16 pounds and will drive all downhill about 40 miles to the shop tomorrow to find out just what the heck is going on.....


****Update****

Nothing blocking the holes into the manifold, so no hydrolock, Torque wrench is fine, dead on. So I got new bolts from Toyota and carefully went to 18.5 foot pounds with the motor fairly cooled off, maybe 85-90 degrees. I will check the torque on them again in a couple days and see if they held.....maybe bump them up to 19 and change and call it good.

New Walbro 255 got put in, a pretty big difference above 3,500 rpms, AFR's look great and motor sounds very nicely aspirated / mixed.

Thanks for listening ( if you did, LOL! ) and thanks for posting all the info you do.

By the way, the nose drive bolts are to be set at 18 as per PSE. You can use Mobile 1 20-50 in it, don't have to buy the spendy GM stuff. Also, the pins on the rotor gear do go on the opposite side of the rounded finish in the coupling slots near the spring, that way it tensions towards the rounded end. That spring is called a "Tension Isolator"...

Peace,

Dan

 

[Kawaianiani]

Good stuff man^

 

[Woolaroo]

thinking about trd supercharger, this is good information. dont quite know what to do to get the most of the s/c, but i will read on.

 

[hottacoX]

Hey Aspen how much was the reman'd nose?

 

[Murderface]

thinking about trd supercharger, this is good information. dont quite know what to do to get the most of the s/c, but i will read on.

Getting the most requires a 2.7" pulley with a NST Overdrive pulley set on for max boost. Then add a used X-1 or the UCONN-ECM when it's released along with 678cc injectors and a 7th injector. Add a free flowing exhaust(long tube headers, catless Y pipe and a 3" catback and ur set

 

[5H4D0WD347H]

thinking about trd supercharger, this is good information. dont quite know what to do to get the most of the s/c, but i will read on.

If I were to do it all over again id run the TRD blower on a 2.8 pulley, a used or new set of headers, a walbro 255, and nitrous.

Doing it this way will probably not require the financial investment of larger injectors or any management system.

Your talking $4,500 bucks or so invested for a setup that WILL rape any truck that isn't built, while being bullet proof reliable for a DD.

 

[Sproulesxrunner]

If I were to do it all over again id run the TRD blower on a 2.8 pulley, a used or new set of headers, a walbro 255, and nitrous.

Doing it this way will probably not require the financial investment of larger injectors or any management system.

Your talking $4,500 bucks or so invested for a setup that WILL rape any truck that isn't built, while being bullet proof reliable for a DD.

Your description sounds like someone I know :hmmmm2:

 

[Aspen_S/C]

Hey Aspen how much was the reman'd nose?

PSE Superchargers gets about $300 for snout re-build which includes new bearings and coupling. But....if you do the snout oil your self every 30-40k, I bet you can go at least 60k before a snout needs to be re-done.

So figure in a 100k span doing the snout oil and blower belt twice, send the snout in at around 60-70k and then the whole blower in around 100k for a complete re-build which is about $700.

I put my truck under quite a bit of load and after 50k between snout oil changes, the oil looked good and the blower was not noisy at all.

 

[K2]

I got confirmation today from SuperchargersOnline.com that the oil amount is 205ml for the TRD S/C unit. I was referred to SuperchargersOnline.com from Magnuson so it came from a credible source.