Tundra Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Upgrade For The Tacoma's

[gbxrunner]

Master Cylinder Tundra 2007+ Sequoia 2008+
Brake Booster Tundra 2007+ Sequoia 2008+
Custom SS Brake Lines
Custom Clutch Fluid Reservoir
Custom MC Fittings

 

[flipboikev]

Is the Tundra brake booster direct bolt on?
Are you running bigger brakes?
How is the pedal feel?

 

[gbxrunner]

Is the Tundra brake booster direct bolt on?
Are you running bigger brakes?
How is the pedal feel?

My XRunner has front BBK 360mm and Rear Disk Conversion 345mm from Performance Brakes Unlimited.
Pedal feels great.

 

[SgtBadA]

The tundra master cylinder is a disc/disc master. Did you have to run a proportioning valve? I'm curious as to how that is working out. Did it directly bolt on?

 

[gbxrunner]

The tundra master cylinder is a disc/disc master. Did you have to run a proportioning valve? I'm curious as to how that is working out. Did it directly bolt on?

Hi there;
No proportioning valve required, The ABS pump, ECU along with the ABS sensor on each wheel monitors speed and movement to prevent any brake locking on the brake system, I have been using this set up for almost a year, no issues.
The Booster will bolt on into the fire wall, everything else need a custom hardware kit available at Performance Brakes Unlimited.
Also If there's anybody around Houston that would like to test my Truck (Brakes), just let me know we can set up a day.
Thanks

 

[SgtBadA]

I live in Fort Worth I may take you up on that offer of testing them. The kit looks awesome. It will definitely be going on the list of mods in the near future. One last question, do any of the sensors on the master cylinder cause any of the daah lights to light up? I'm guessing they match up perfectly.

 

[gbxrunner]

I live in Fort Worth I may take you up on that offer of testing them. The kit looks awesome. It will definitely be going on the list of mods in the near future. One last question, do any of the sensors on the master cylinder cause any of the daah lights to light up? I'm guessing they match up perfectly.

Hello there.
Nop, everything fits perfectly, No lights up. Just OEM.
Let me know for the test drive.
Thanks

 

[Doublld]

what is the biggest difference between the oem booster an master compared to the tundra?

 

[gbxrunner]

what is the biggest difference between the oem booster an master compared to the tundra?

Tacoma: single diaphragm 11.250in, MC 13/16
Tundra: double diaphragm 9.745in, MC 15/16

 

[x-runner kid]

So how much is it gonna cost for the kit and what all is included and what all do we need to buy outside of the kit?

 

[gbxrunner]

WHAT MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER AND BRAKE BOOSTER?
TOYOTA TUNDRA 2007 -2015, SEQUOIA 2008-2014.
MC BRAKE LINES?
MC BRAKE LINES NEED'S TO BE REPLACED TO LONGER ONES. ONE OF 72" AND ONE OF 75".
YOU CAN ALWAYS REUSE YOUR EXISTING BRAKE LINES, IF YOU HAVE THE SKILLS TO WORK WITH THEM, YOU CAN DO IT. I WILL RECOMMEND NEW ONES.
ALSO BRAKE LINES WILL BE AVAILABLE TO BUY FROM PERFORMANCE BRAKES UNLIMITED. EXACT LENGTH COILED BRAKE TUBING WITH FITTINGS ALREADY ATTACHED, THEY JUST NEED TO BE BEND TO FIT. PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION RECOMMENDED.
WHAT THE KIT INCLUDES?
ALL HARDWARE TO INSTALL BRAKE BOOSTER TO THE FACTORY BRAKE PEDAL AND MC FITTINGS TO RECONNECT BRAKE LINES.
WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO COMPLETE THE UPGRADE?
MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER.
BRAKE BOOSTER.
LONGER BRAKE LINES.
THE XRUNNER AND TACOMAS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION WILL NEED A SEPARATE RESERVOIR FOR THE CLUTCH (BRAKE) FLUID. FOR EXAMPLE A MOTORCYCLE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR.
WHAT MODIFICATIONS DO I NEED TO DO ON MY TACOMA?
LONGER BRAKE LINES.
YOU NEED SEPARATE CLUTCH RESERVOIR (FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY).
EVERYTHING ELSE IS EASY BOLT ON.

HOW MUCH FOR THE KIT?
SALE IS $109.99 XRU members will get a 10% discount AND FREE SHIPPING lower 48 states.
FOR DISCOUNT CODE PLEASE PM.

 

[SgtBadA]

Not a bad deal. A proportioning valve would be needed if keeping drum brakes in the rear.

 

[x-runner kid]

That's a good deal for sure now I just need a rear disc conversion so I can justify this lol.

 

[gbxrunner]

More info about ABS.....A standard Anti-lock Braking System uses four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic pump, four hydraulic valves (assuming it is a 4 channel setup), and a controller. The controller in the ABS system monitors the speed of each wheel using the wheel speed sensors, which are usually hall effect sensors. If the controller sees that one wheel is decelerating at a rate that couldn't possibly correspond to the vehicle's rate of deceleration, it actuates the hydraulic valve in that wheel's brake line to reduce the brake pressure applied to that wheel. This allows the wheel to turn faster. Once the wheel is back up to speed, it uses the pump to introduce the pressure back into that brake line, applying that brake again. When the controller sees rapid deceleration again, it activates the valve and the cycle repeats about 15 times per second. This happens the same on Disk/Drum and/or Disk/Disk.

 

[SgtBadA]

I'm only worried about the master locking up the rear brakes before the front. I haven't converted to disc in the rear yet. Drums work a little differently so my guess is that a proportioning valve is needed if keeping drums

 

[NetherRealm]

Brakes are the first mod i'm looking to do on my XR. I was looking at the Stoptech 6 pots but this might be better as its using OEM parts. I might as well do the front/rear disk conversions and the booster all at once.

 

[SgtBadA]

I'm focusing on this too. I've already got the tundra front brakes. They stop great just need that little extra pedal feel from a bigger master cylinder

 

[LilRed]

Sorry for the delayed on posting this. I bought the stainless steel brake lines and the master brake booster conversion kit about three months ago. The difference is night and day. I have stock calipers and braking always felt spongy, and gave little feedback right until the ABS would kick in. The stock system feels borderline unsafe. But now, they feel like how they should have from the factory. I would recommend purchasing the stainless steel brake lines while you are at it. Also, make sure your master cylinder has a gasket before you get started. I made a stupid mistake and installed it without one since the local parts store said that some do not need one. It will result in a vacuum leak. The dealership had to order it and it takes a couple days to get in. Otherwise, it's a pretty straight forward process. If you have a TRD s/c, you might have to take it off to get the new brake booster to fit. I already had mine off since I was change its oil.

P.S. Since switching, there has been one situation where a car pulled out in front of me. I know I would have hit them if I did not make the switch. I highly recommend this kit. Anyways, hope this helps anyone on the fence. Do it!