Which Clutch to buy?


Active Member
Tahoe I'm in your shoes I tote my bikes around and like the fact there is some low end grunt and really don't want to worry about changing to much that will require attention in the long run, just wondering if OEM or OEM copy would work for daily. I'm sure OEM is not cheap either.

You guys could probably do the steel flywheel, that would help you out both ways. Still has more mass than the aluminum one, but is lighter than stock. I have the steel flywheel and stage 3+ clutch and I've hauled a gsxr1000 in the back with 4 people in the truck at one time and it didn't give me any problems at all. I guess it depends on how much you tow and how often though. But the steel flywheel is a nice compromise.


New Member
1 bike, sometimes 2 bikes. And I have a 91 Jetta GLI trackcar that I ran in a 24hrs of Lemons. Thinking of getting a small toybox trailer for the bike and camping. I can get OEM parts cost +20% aftermarket replacement parts for wholesale.


Active Member

is it ok to run a urd stage 2 or 3 with the stock flywheel?

my clutch went out today, dont have enough money to pay someone to do it, so im having at it. just dont know if I should get a stage 2 or 3.


Staff member
It's ok to run a 2 or 3 with the stock fly, you should just get it resurfaced by a shop for like $50 or so. And IMO I would go stage 3:top:



Thats weird I have had my truck 5 years and 80,00 miles and my oem clutch is perfectly fine and I drive my x-runner crazy as hell. How do you guys know if your clutch is going bad?

Hey I cant decide between Exedy tyk1515 and tyk1503... Is there a difference? According to rock auto the FJ cruiser uses 1503 and xrunner 1515 but I thought they were the same... I assume I'll want the URD TOB as well. Also I'm trying to decide which of these is the proper rear main seal. (national part number 710416 ?)
Should I just go ahead and replace both master and slave cylinders?