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Write-Up: TRD Short Shifter Install

HiTek21

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Disclaimer: This is for information only. Any bodily injury or damage to your property is at your own risk.

This installation was done on a 2007 Tacoma X-Runner 6 Speed. These instructions may or may not work on a 4x4 or 5 speed model. Additional parts & tools may be required for 4wd or Pre-runner

Installation Time
45 minutes - 90 minutes

Difficulty
5 out of 10

Tools Needed

12mm 3/8 drive socket
12mm 1/2 drive socket
10mm 3/8 drive Socket
12mm Combo wrench
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" Ratchet extension
Torque wrench
Assorted philips & flathead screwdrivers
Plastic Hammer
Rubbing Alcohol
RTV Silicon or Toyota FIPG Sealant (P/N 00295-01281)

TRD Quickshifter 2wd P/N PTR04-35051 ($287.50 @ TRDParts4u.com)
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Kit's Contents
1 Short Shifter
1 Spacer
4 Bolts
Installation Instructions
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Toyota's Form In Place Gasket - P/N 00295-01281
Cost $23 from Puente Hills Toyota. It just gives me piece of mind knowing the materials I used are correct.
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Step 1: Cover up your seats & floors with an old Towel to keep any grease or oil off your fabric incase you drop something
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Step 2: Remove the center consoles cup holder by lifting it straight up, you don't need to pry it with a screwdriver. There are a few clips that secure the cup holders down. Just be patient when you remove it to prevent breaking any clips. Mine came off fairly easily.
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Step 3: Remove the center console compartment.

Open the lid and remove the carpet. Use a small screw drive to pry up a corner of the carpet and lift up.
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Under the carpet are 2 x 10mm Bolts , remove them and store .
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Where the cup holder was there are 2 philips head screws, remove and store.
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Remove the center console compartment by lifting up. There are a couple of hooks that secure it (you can partially see them in the picture). It comes off easily so don't force it off.
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Step 4: Remove the center console.

Drop the shifter into 2nd, 4th, or 6th gear and remove shift knob.

Remove the two screws that are located under where the cupholder was.
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Pull the center console back towards the rear of the cab and lift up at the sametime. There are 3 clips total holding the console. They should come off easily again don't force just use a little patients.

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Step 5: remove your shifter's dust boot by unscrewing the two philips head screws on the side closer to the center console compartment (located on the bottom of the picture). There are two clips that are holding down the front. Use a small screw driver and push the center down and it will disengage the clip. Lift up and remove. Store all hardware in safe place.
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Step 6: Lift up the rubber dust boot to expose the shift lever cap
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Next unscrew the shift lever cap by pressing down on the center part and turning it counter clockwise. It should just pop off. You can remove and store your old shifter.
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Step 7: Remove the shift lever retainer by unscrewing the 4 x 12mm bolts around the retainer.
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The old retainer might be stuck down from the old gasket material. Use the plastic hammer and whack the side of it a couple of times carefully and it should break free. You might want to put a towel to cover the opening. You don't want anything to fall inside the transmission.

Don't use a rubber mallet because it doesn't work.

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Step 8: Remove the old gasket material (stuff a clean shop rag into the opening so the gasket material doesn't fall in) from both the transmission and the bottom of the shifter retainer. I used a plastic scraper to get all the large stuff off and some rubbing alcohol to remove the rest. This is probably the most time consuming part of the installation, it took me about 30 minutes to get all the crap off. The after picture still has a little gasket material but I removed all of it. I just got a little frustrated and wanted to get the picture out of the way. D
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Step 9: Apply the new gasket sealant to the bottom part of the spacer and install. The new spacer is stamped LWR for the bottom. I went a little overboard with the new gasket material and I had to wipe off the excess that seeped out. The spacer has two holes with counter bores on them, make sure to line them up properly when installing.
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Step 10: Apply the new gasket sealer to the bottom of the shift retainer and install
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Step 11: Install the new bolts supplied with the shift kit (they are longer than the old ones). Hand thread them until they seat properly to avoid stripping or cross threading. Use your torque wrench and apply 25lb/ft. You should evenly torque them down in a X pattern before applying the full 25lb/ft

I had to use a 12mm 1/2" drive with my torque wrench.

With the new spacer installed you might not have enough clearence to put a socket over one bolt (upper left bolt in the picture). You can either Use a Dremel tool with the drum sander bit and grind down some of the metal so you can make clearence for a socket. You don't need to grind a lot just enough to make enough room for a socket.

or you can use a open end wrench to torque down the bolt.

I ended up sanding down a little bit of the metal to make clearence.
Trim the area marked in yellow

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Step 12: Install the new TRD Short Shifter in the opposite fashion as you removed the old shifter. There are two key index marks on the inside of the shift retainer (you must line up the two key index marks on the shift lever cap with the marks on the ball on the shifter) and two on the side of the shifter.

Align your markers up and it should slide into place. Now you can press down on the shift lever cap and turn it clockwise until it locks into place.

Put the dust cover over the base of the shift lever retainer
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Put your shift knob back on before re-assembling everything. If you installed everything properly you should be able to shift into all the gears properly. Putting into reverse is a lot harder than before but it should still go in without too much force.

Install the center console in the reverse order and go drive that sucker around the block!
 
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HiTek21

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Tools Used
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Old shifter (bottom) vs New Shifter (top)
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new on the left / old on the right
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Finished product

Difference is day and night. It's a lot more precise feeling than the stock shifter with less play. I don't know how it compares with the URD shifter but I would recommend this mod to anyone who doesn't like the feel of the stock shifter.
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Top view in 1st gear with the new shifter
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Top view in 2nd gear with the new shifter
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K2

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Dood - AWESOME WRITE-UP! Thank you for submitting that! PM me your address and I'll send you a free sticker. :top:
 

FoxDavis

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:top::top::top: , Good job man, :top::top::top:
 

Joe_XR

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Thanks, my shifter came in last night. This will be very helpfull:rock:
 

XrunDan

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i noticed that in the pics for step #8, there is no fluid in the tranny....mine was full of fluid when i removed the shifter plate.......IS THAT BAD???
 

X-Runnin

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i noticed that in the pics for step #8, there is no fluid in the tranny....mine was full of fluid when i removed the shifter plate.......IS THAT BAD???

Yeah mine had fluid all I guess grease all over it but his is all clean and shiny:dontknow:
 

HiTek21

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I was expecting to see fluid inside the compartment too. There was a tiny bit sitting in there but I wiped it up when I was cleaning out some of the gasket material that fell out.

I wonder if this is a bad sign. I haven't touched my Transmission fluid yet. I was debating wheather or not to change it to Redline synthetic
 

xmoney

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I was expecting to see fluid inside the compartment too. There was a tiny bit sitting in there but I wiped it up when I was cleaning out some of the gasket material that fell out.

I wonder if this is a bad sign. I haven't touched my Transmission fluid yet. I was debating wheather or not to change it to Redline synthetic

Adding redline to mine made a huge difference in changing gears. I can slam any gear i want to now with out grinding.

no more hearing, "Cant find'em, Grind'em...:
 

project-c2

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I love it. Can't wait to get one. Is this similiar to the B&M install?
 

xrunner5-0

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whats the part number for the shifter? Has anyone compared the difference between URD, TRD, and B&M to see which they like best?
 

NHXRUNNER

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So just too be completely sure do I just have to protect the small whole or the entire area when I'm removing the gasket material? It'll probably make more sense to me when I open it up tonight but I want to be prepared before I do so. Thanks for the info in advance.
 

HiTek21

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You don't really want anything to drop inside the transmission. I'm sure it won't hurt if little pieces of the gasket material falls in but don't drop any hardware in there cuz it goes into the tranny.
 

TitanRattler813

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IMG_0391.jpg


So just too be completely sure do I just have to protect the small whole or the entire area when I'm removing the gasket material? It'll probably make more sense to me when I open it up tonight but I want to be prepared before I do so. Thanks for the info in advance.

I remember being able to see clear to the floor, so my guess is it's the small hole you want to cover. To be safe, I just covered the entire opening with a clean rag, but I think if some of the gasket material falls it'll just end up under your truck.
 

TitanRattler813

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Tip for step 7: I had my truck all taken apart and took the stock shifter off and realized I didn't have a plastic hammer. If you don't have a plastic hammer, I used a regular hammer and a piece of wood. Hold the piece of wood on the part you're trying to break loose & tap the end of the wood block. Works just the same and does no damage.
 

quontime

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Well done, now I know how to take my counsel out to install my s/s. Thanks..
 
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