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Mushing Pedal

Tunedx

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I just installed trd bbk. Replaced and bled brake system several times in the proper sequence but still have mushy pedal. Seems when I tap the brake it stops and pedal starts to become mushy. When I push pedal slowly it goes about half way but doesn't brake worth shit. I verified one step in checking master cylinder is fine by pushing pedal down with vehicle off and then fire it up and pedal goes down. I hope my mc isn't pooched. Is there anytging I'm missing?
 

darthyota

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you might have to take it to the stealer for a power bleed cause of the abs distrabution block. i had a similar issue with my moms bmw
 

babyboi2284

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I had an older car do this and found out my brake booster was bad.

And I'm assuming you had a mushy pedal before the BBK since you said "still have" right??
 

Tunedx

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Everything was fine before the install. Only reason I might consider the mc being pooched is my wife pushed the pedal to the floor when bleeding the first time but something tells me otherwise that I may be bleeding the brakes incorrectly. I'm not fully submerging the drain tube in brake fluid thus allowing air to re-enter the system. Also I never followed the bleed instructions from trd if that makes any difference. It tells u to bleed ps inboard nipple and then outboard nipple. DS inboard and then outboard and also to hit the caliper with rubber mallet to remove air bubbles and then repeat bleeding process again.
 

Murderface

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What I just read in ur above post kinda worries me. U said u may not have the bleeder tube all the way in the fluid when bleeding the brakes, that's really not a problem. The problem is when someone that's in the truck let's off the pedal before u close the bleeder screw. That will cause air to rush into the lines.
Now u can get a fancy bleeder for under $100 U.S. That actually pushes the fluid up to the resevior instead of having the fluid move the opposite direction. This way will push air the way it wants to go naturally which is up and out the resevior. It's a one-man bleeder where u hook the contraption up to the bleeder screw, open it up and then pushes the new fluid and air up and out the resevior. I used this when I put my BBK on and my brakes are better then when I bought the truck and the dealer had installed new pads and shoes before I bought it.

Now if u have air in the ABS pump ur better off taking it to the stealership and have them power bleed it like mentioned already. Now there is a way that u can bleed the ABS pump urself but it sounds like u may be better off having the stealership do it. Good luck and keep us posted
 

butters607

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or wat you can do is gravity bleed them and let the fluid force the air out it takes a couple hours but has always worked for me also im pretty sure you have to start at the right rear then go to the left rear then the right front then left front and must be bleed in that order i think thats right can someone verify i h=cant remember im pretty tired right now
 

Murderface

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^^^thats the right order. U always bleed from furthest away from the MC and then work ur way to it
But....if he has air in his ABS pump module gravity bleeding ain't gonna do shit
 

butters607

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right when the driver depresses the pedal you close the the bleeder then tell them to let off of the brake YOU CAN ONLY DO ONE WHEEL AT A TIME! then you tell them to press the pedal down again and hold it down then slowly open the bleeder after you open it close it after you do each wheel like this until all you see is fluid with no bubbles in it coming out its done! go up top off the brake fluid and same thing on each wheel!
 

Tunedx

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I think I might head to the stealership. Should I get all four brakes bled or just have them do the front?
 

butters607

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I think I might head to the stealership. Should I get all four brakes bled or just have them do the front?

Do them all

Brakes are nothing to cheap out.on bro
 
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rich017

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They have to actuate the ABS module in order to bleed it.

I am going to say that it's the brake booster for now because it's kind of hard to get air into the ABS module
 

STONER-X

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They have to actuate the ABS module in order to bleed it.

I am going to say that it's the brake booster for now because it's kind of hard to get air into the ABS module


thats what i was thinking.... for the most part from what i understand is the abs module is bypassed untill the abs pump is actually used... and to track air all the way back to the pump it a long trip for a basic bleed job... that is unless the brake fluid didnt run dry while bleeding... i would say try it one more time... its all about good team work.. here is how i do it... im gonna try to simple for typing and reading lol

-have the person pump the once they are hard have them say "ready"
-then you open the bleeder
-as the pedal is still moving (i say once about half way) have say "close it"
-once the bleeder is closed say "closed" so the pumper knows it is ok to let up on the pedal
-you close it.. and when you are ready say "pump it"

then repeat these steps it has never failed me yet...

the key is to close the bleeder while the fluid is still shooting out... i also put i hose in a water bottle to keep it clean... and also i like to think if the brake pedal is let up a tad early the extra fluid in the line will help eliminate SOME air from getting sucked back in...
 

Tunedx

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UPDATE!!

Brought the x to the stealership. They performed a full brake dignoise and it ended up being air trapped in the rear brakes. Cost me $120.00 but worth the hassle, Glad is wasn't the master cylinder. Pedal is solid now!!
 

butters607

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UPDATE!!

Brought the x to the stealership. They performed a full brake dignoise and it ended up being air trapped in the rear brakes. Cost me $120.00 but worth the hassle, Glad is wasn't the master cylinder. Pedal is solid now!!

glad to hear that bro!
 
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