SouthernmostXR
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I am # 2 on the group buy ........beat you to #2
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SignUp Now!Darton sleeves aren't necessary for 500whp. Proper tuning and components are. The sleeves are for added strength and longevity.
Hell maybe even 12 lol
So no risk of wobble in the cylinder at 500 without sleeves?
12 & 13: 1 compression ratios available here: http://www.lceperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=1gr&Search.x=4&Search.y=3
Of course, you can always have anything in between made as well.
There was a member on here, whom I cannot remember the name right now, who had to replace his factory head gaskets due to leaking after 100k miles. He had been supercharged for a considerable portion of that time as well. When the work was taking place, he mentioned that the mechanic said that there were signs of cylinder wobble on the factory head gaskets. Keep in mind that doesn't mean the cylinders were mimicking a bobble head.
The factory torque to yield head bolts are not nearly as strong in tensile strength as the ARP head studs. The fact that the factory ones are so much weaker, as well as are designed to "stretch" upon install means that they will stretch even more under - years of boost, and many many heat cycles. That stretching reduced the clamping force and will allow the cylinders to wobble ever so slightly over time.
ARP studs will help prevent that, through a more continuous clamp force.
Good times to install them would be- if you have to remove the timing cover say for an oil leak, if you are doing head work for cams, or if you are installing forged internals.
12 & 13: 1 compression ratios available here: http://www.lceperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=1gr&Search.x=4&Search.y=3
Of course, you can always have anything in between made as well.
There was a member on here, whom I cannot remember the name right now, who had to replace his factory head gaskets due to leaking after 100k miles. He had been supercharged for a considerable portion of that time as well. When the work was taking place, he mentioned that the mechanic said that there were signs of cylinder wobble on the factory head gaskets. Keep in mind that doesn't mean the cylinders were mimicking a bobble head.
The factory torque to yield head bolts are not nearly as strong in tensile strength as the ARP head studs. The fact that the factory ones are so much weaker, as well as are designed to "stretch" upon install means that they will stretch even more under - years of boost, and many many heat cycles. That stretching reduced the clamping force and will allow the cylinders to wobble ever so slightly over time.
ARP studs will help prevent that, through a more continuous clamp force.
Good times to install them would be- if you have to remove the timing cover say for an oil leak, if you are doing head work for cams, or if you are installing forged internals.
Definitely get the ARP head studs, rods, and head gaskets from Dezod. They have the best price for sure.
Then since LCE is right next right next to you have them build it like you said.
As far as what level of power is needed to add sleeves, I cannot say. I do not know. Someone from Darton, or people in the industry whom have dealt with Open Deck blocks should know.
Huh? I don't know what you are talking about.